UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverside campsite in Malham, or the Gordale Scar campsite instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2025 has been lifted as of 19th May. Sadly the nest failed this year.

23m.

Rockfax Description
Good climbing with some loose rock near the top that is easily avoided by using the lower-off below the final overlaps. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Good climbing but some loose rock near the top (though this can be avoided by lowering from a double bolt stance at around 15m)

FA. Dave Musgrove 1996.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ian Dunn 11 Nov, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Lower off added at break and route cleaned making it a nice warm up / easy addition at the crag.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lower off added at break and route cleaned making it a nice warm up / easy addition at the crag.
Seymore Butt 23 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Always thought this route was called 'Brain Dead Dave', seeing as i did the second ascent on wires about 14 years ago.The same day as Mick Ryan had done the first ascent.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Always thought this route was called 'Brain Dead Dave', seeing as i did the second ascent on wires about 14 years ago.The same day as Mick Ryan had done the first ascent.
Bob 14 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: One hard move to get off the ground, then much easier climbing to the break. Slightly loose above the break.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One hard move to get off the ground, then much easier climbing to the break. Slightly loose above the break.

Logged Ascents

82 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Malham Cove

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 20 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Sibyl Speaks

Grade: 6c ***
(Blue Scar)

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