UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

12m.

Rockfax Description
The steep wall above an undercut stepped flake has shed some holds over the years but is still 7b - just. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Humberstone, Julian Short 1986.

Ticklists

The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jacktheclimber 24 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A fitting title, a hard route and a real chunk of motivation for next spring - good luck Tim next time you’re on it!
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βeta: A fitting title, a hard route and a real chunk of motivation for next spring - good luck Tim next time you’re on it!
richardh 5 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: agree with Neil Binns' order of things, and obsession and space race are way above Wasted, 7th, and Something Stupid
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βeta: agree with Neil Binns' order of things, and obsession and space race are way above Wasted, 7th, and Something Stupid
Neil Binns 29 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: If any 7b were to be upgraded on the right I would say Bongo Fury. Of the 7bs I have done at Malham, I would say the order of difficulty (hardest first) is something like: Bongo Fury Personal Services Wasted Youth 7th Ardvaark Something Stupid
βeta?
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βeta: If any 7b were to be upgraded on the right I would say Bongo Fury. Of the 7bs I have done at Malham, I would say the order of difficulty (hardest first) is something like: Bongo Fury Personal Services Wasted Youth 7th Ardvaark Something Stupid
Andy Farnell 25 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Both Seventh and Wasted are hard 7b. Compare to a proper 7b+'s (Obsession, Space Race) and you see what I mean. Seventh and Wasted aren't even as hard as Toad of Beck Hall!
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βeta: Both Seventh and Wasted are hard 7b. Compare to a proper 7b+'s (Obsession, Space Race) and you see what I mean. Seventh and Wasted aren't even as hard as Toad of Beck Hall!
Adam Lincoln 21 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: No way, if anything should be 7b+ it should be seventh aardvark. I think seventh is a notch harder than wasted.
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βeta: No way, if anything should be 7b+ it should be seventh aardvark. I think seventh is a notch harder than wasted.
Dan Arkle 20 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The consensus at the crag last week seemed to be that the route is now 7b+
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βeta: The consensus at the crag last week seemed to be that the route is now 7b+
Andy Farnell 20 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Now that the flake before the last bolt has broken (but not completely), the move is quite a bit tougher than it previously was. The good finger lock has gone and a flared pinch is left. The route is still 7b but now middle of the grade as opposed to bottom.
βeta?
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βeta: Now that the flake before the last bolt has broken (but not completely), the move is quite a bit tougher than it previously was. The good finger lock has gone and a flared pinch is left. The route is still 7b but now middle of the grade as opposed to bottom.
Martin Christmas 3 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The good part of the top flake from which you clip the fourth bolt now lies in the beck. This makes the top a bit more wobbly
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βeta: The good part of the top flake from which you clip the fourth bolt now lies in the beck. This makes the top a bit more wobbly
Andy Farnell 1 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A good route with two distinct sections. The frist bolt is a little tricky to clip.
βeta?
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βeta: A good route with two distinct sections. The frist bolt is a little tricky to clip.
Daimon - Rockfax 16 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Grate Start to a rounded middle and tricky top half. I remember sone good tuther climbing up there.
βeta?
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βeta: Grate Start to a rounded middle and tricky top half. I remember sone good tuther climbing up there.

Logged Ascents

304 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Malham Cove

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 82
Votes cast 56
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Moon Over Marin

Grade: 7b ***
(Hull Pot)

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