Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents
By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.
Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.
Peregrine restriction: Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.
The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period.
House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.
Rockfax Description
The steep wall above an undercut stepped flake has shed some holds over the years but is still 7b - just. © Rockfax
FA. Dave Humberstone, Julian Short 1986.
The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Jacktheclimber | 24 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: A fitting title, a hard route and a real chunk of motivation for next spring - good luck Tim next time you’re on it! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A fitting title, a hard route and a real chunk of motivation for next spring - good luck Tim next time you’re on it! |
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richardh | 5 Jul, 2007 |
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βeta: agree with Neil Binns' order of things, and obsession and space race are way above Wasted, 7th, and Something Stupid | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: agree with Neil Binns' order of things, and obsession and space race are way above Wasted, 7th, and Something Stupid |
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Neil Binns | 29 Jun, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: If any 7b were to be upgraded on the right I would say Bongo Fury. Of the 7bs I have done at Malham, I would say the order of difficulty (hardest first) is something like: Bongo Fury Personal Services Wasted Youth 7th Ardvaark Something Stupid | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: If any 7b were to be upgraded on the right I would say Bongo Fury. Of the 7bs I have done at Malham, I would say the order of difficulty (hardest first) is something like: Bongo Fury Personal Services Wasted Youth 7th Ardvaark Something Stupid |
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Andy Farnell | 25 Jun, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Both Seventh and Wasted are hard 7b. Compare to a proper 7b+'s (Obsession, Space Race) and you see what I mean. Seventh and Wasted aren't even as hard as Toad of Beck Hall! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Both Seventh and Wasted are hard 7b. Compare to a proper 7b+'s (Obsession, Space Race) and you see what I mean. Seventh and Wasted aren't even as hard as Toad of Beck Hall! |
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Adam Lincoln | 21 Jun, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: No way, if anything should be 7b+ it should be seventh aardvark. I think seventh is a notch harder than wasted. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: No way, if anything should be 7b+ it should be seventh aardvark. I think seventh is a notch harder than wasted. |
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Dan Arkle | 20 Jun, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: The consensus at the crag last week seemed to be that the route is now 7b+ | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The consensus at the crag last week seemed to be that the route is now 7b+ |
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Andy Farnell | 20 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Now that the flake before the last bolt has broken (but not completely), the move is quite a bit tougher than it previously was. The good finger lock has gone and a flared pinch is left. The route is still 7b but now middle of the grade as opposed to bottom. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Now that the flake before the last bolt has broken (but not completely), the move is quite a bit tougher than it previously was. The good finger lock has gone and a flared pinch is left. The route is still 7b but now middle of the grade as opposed to bottom. |
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Martin Christmas | 3 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The good part of the top flake from which you clip the fourth bolt now lies in the beck. This makes the top a bit more wobbly | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The good part of the top flake from which you clip the fourth bolt now lies in the beck. This makes the top a bit more wobbly |
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Andy Farnell | 1 Mar, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: A good route with two distinct sections. The frist bolt is a little tricky to clip. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A good route with two distinct sections. The frist bolt is a little tricky to clip. |
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Daimon - Rockfax | 16 Jan, 2003 |
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βeta: Grate Start to a rounded middle and tricky top half. I remember sone good tuther climbing up there. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Grate Start to a rounded middle and tricky top half. I remember sone good tuther climbing up there. |
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Grade: 7b ***
(Hull Pot)