UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

23m.

Rockfax Description
As good an E2 as you will find anywhere with a hard start and a 'go for it' finish. Climb steeply up into the corner (hard) and follow it to moves out right. Easier climbing leads up to the roof then steep moves up the groove gain some breaks. Pause only briefly before moving left and aiming for the fence posts that stick out over the top of the cliff. © Rockfax

FA. Robin Barley, Dennis Gray 1964.

Ticklists

Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fiend 14 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Mitch, throw your keyboard away, you obviously don't know how to use it. Pretty classic stuff that does what it says on the tin, albeit a bit fiddly in places. Start could be worth a flutter as the ground is uncomfortable close. The finish is pleasingly exposed and a bit urgent, but not nearly as bad as it looks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Mitch, throw your keyboard away, you obviously don't know how to use it. Pretty classic stuff that does what it says on the tin, albeit a bit fiddly in places. Start could be worth a flutter as the ground is uncomfortable close. The finish is pleasingly exposed and a bit urgent, but not nearly as bad as it looks.
phatlad 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yorks E3 maybe, though it feels more like E2 5b. more gear than you could waggle a stick at
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yorks E3 maybe, though it feels more like E2 5b. more gear than you could waggle a stick at
Stone Muppet 12 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: just failed to do this so can't really comment on grade... but agree the flutter symbol isn't appropriate! getting the first bit of gear in is tricky, and the landing not great, but at the end of the day it's only a couple of meters up so no flutters there. as to the finish, decent cams protect if you can hang around to put them in - I should know, I rested on them!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: just failed to do this so can't really comment on grade... but agree the flutter symbol isn't appropriate! getting the first bit of gear in is tricky, and the landing not great, but at the end of the day it's only a couple of meters up so no flutters there. as to the finish, decent cams protect if you can hang around to put them in - I should know, I rested on them!
Grinning Donkey 30 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Magnificent and classic route...only spoiled by the fact that it is v. polished in quite a few sections...shame...
βeta?
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βeta: Magnificent and classic route...only spoiled by the fact that it is v. polished in quite a few sections...shame...
Bob 20 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: What's the flutter symbol for?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What's the flutter symbol for?
GDes 16 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: the bottom bit's not hard-just go for it. good holds on the step out from the groove. just make sure you have a good rest at the ledge before the last bit, then leg it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the bottom bit's not hard-just go for it. good holds on the step out from the groove. just make sure you have a good rest at the ledge before the last bit, then leg it!
GeoffG 19 Jan, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: wheres the 6a?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: wheres the 6a?

Logged Ascents

356 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Malham Cove

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 55 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 47
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 58
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Horse Gone Wonky

Grade: E2 6a ***
(Sypeland)

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