UKC

23m.

Rockfax Description
As good an E2 as you will find anywhere with a hard start and a 'go for it' finish. Climb steeply up into the corner (hard) and follow it to moves out right. Easier climbing leads up to the roof then steep moves up the groove gain some breaks. Pause only briefly before moving left and aiming for the fence posts that stick out over the top of the cliff. © Rockfax

FA. Robin Barley, Dennis Gray 1964.

Ticklists

Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Yorkshire Limestone top 50, Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fiend 14 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Mitch, throw your keyboard away, you obviously don't know how to use it. Pretty classic stuff that does what it says on the tin, albeit a bit fiddly in places. Start could be worth a flutter as the ground is uncomfortable close. The finish is pleasingly exposed and a bit urgent, but not nearly as bad as it looks.
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βeta: Mitch, throw your keyboard away, you obviously don't know how to use it. Pretty classic stuff that does what it says on the tin, albeit a bit fiddly in places. Start could be worth a flutter as the ground is uncomfortable close. The finish is pleasingly exposed and a bit urgent, but not nearly as bad as it looks.
phatlad 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yorks E3 maybe, though it feels more like E2 5b. more gear than you could waggle a stick at
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βeta: Yorks E3 maybe, though it feels more like E2 5b. more gear than you could waggle a stick at
Stone Muppet 12 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: just failed to do this so can't really comment on grade... but agree the flutter symbol isn't appropriate! getting the first bit of gear in is tricky, and the landing not great, but at the end of the day it's only a couple of meters up so no flutters there. as to the finish, decent cams protect if you can hang around to put them in - I should know, I rested on them!
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βeta: just failed to do this so can't really comment on grade... but agree the flutter symbol isn't appropriate! getting the first bit of gear in is tricky, and the landing not great, but at the end of the day it's only a couple of meters up so no flutters there. as to the finish, decent cams protect if you can hang around to put them in - I should know, I rested on them!
Grinning Donkey 30 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Magnificent and classic route...only spoiled by the fact that it is v. polished in quite a few sections...shame...
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βeta: Magnificent and classic route...only spoiled by the fact that it is v. polished in quite a few sections...shame...
Bob 20 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: What's the flutter symbol for?
βeta?
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βeta: What's the flutter symbol for?
Ged Desforges 16 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: the bottom bit's not hard-just go for it. good holds on the step out from the groove. just make sure you have a good rest at the ledge before the last bit, then leg it!
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βeta: the bottom bit's not hard-just go for it. good holds on the step out from the groove. just make sure you have a good rest at the ledge before the last bit, then leg it!
GeoffG 19 Jan, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: wheres the 6a?
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βeta: wheres the 6a?

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 44
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 56
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Carnage

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Malham Cove)
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