Restricted Access
Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents
- Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
- Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
- Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
- No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverside campsite in Malham, or the Gordale Scar campsite instead
- Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
- Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy
By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.
Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2025 has been lifted as of 19th May. Sadly the nest failed this year.
Rockfax Description
A classic line that features sustained undercutting. Follow the steep right-facing overlaps with some powerful moves and a great hands-off rest. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
March 2025 : The big flake between bolts 3 and 4 has been reported as loose with a strong recommendation to avoid this route for the time-being.
Ticklists
Classic UK F7s , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , 28 Decent Sport Routes , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rock cats getting strong , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , Lime Time , Quarantine Comeback Yorkshire Psyche , Big Ron routes for mortals , Another lifelist? , All the 7as and 7a+ at Malham
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| tomlangton | 14 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: The loose flake looks like its been removed now with an obvious white scar and broken rock on the ground below | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The loose flake looks like its been removed now with an obvious white scar and broken rock on the ground below |
||||
| Moonbeam | 10 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The redpoint crux, for me, became the moves beneath the redirect chain. These moves never felt too difficult in isolation but became super burly when linking from the ground. I make the hanging chain clip off a hold to the left of the obvious two-handed undercut. My left hand is on a crappy square block with my arm fully extended. Using two very good foot edges, I can sort of cam my body in here and clip with the right hand. This saves so much power for the next moves. The following moves, via the deep two-handed undercut, up the two wide pinches and into the kneebar were the redpoint crux for me. The key is to build up the feet so the throw into the large overlapping pinch holds is controlled and within reach. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: The redpoint crux, for me, became the moves beneath the redirect chain. These moves never felt too difficult in isolation but became super burly when linking from the ground. I make the hanging chain clip off a hold to the left of the obvious two-handed undercut. My left hand is on a crappy square block with my arm fully extended. Using two very good foot edges, I can sort of cam my body in here and clip with the right hand. This saves so much power for the next moves. The following moves, via the deep two-handed undercut, up the two wide pinches and into the kneebar were the redpoint crux for me. The key is to build up the feet so the throw into the large overlapping pinch holds is controlled and within reach. |
||||
| Moonbeam | 11 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Struggled clipping the first redirect/hanging chain. Powered out and ended up making a right circus of it. Must get stronger! And braver! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Struggled clipping the first redirect/hanging chain. Powered out and ended up making a right circus of it. Must get stronger! And braver! |
||||
| OllieBarker | 1 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: 2nd to strip | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: 2nd to strip |
||||
| Daimon - Rockfax | 16 Jan, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Probably one of the best routes of its grade in Yorkshire /World. It is totaly sport now. Long and Pumpy but grate to bag. You can get a bit lost these days as there are lots of bolts floting around. A clear marked Topo is needed. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Probably one of the best routes of its grade in Yorkshire /World. It is totaly sport now. Long and Pumpy but grate to bag. You can get a bit lost these days as there are lots of bolts floting around. A clear marked Topo is needed. |
||||
| Ricardo | 15 Jul, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Never found the hands off rest! Forget the wires though - no need. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Never found the hands off rest! Forget the wires though - no need. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Malham Cove
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Springtime
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Filey Brigg)