Restricted Access
Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents
- Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
- Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
- Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
- No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverside campsite in Malham, or the Gordale Scar campsite instead
- Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
- Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy
By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.
Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2025 has been lifted as of 19th May. Sadly the nest failed this year.
Rockfax Description
Malham's first 8a. A famous and magnificent climb which starts below a chunky flake. Gaining the flake is tricky, however the sustained upper wall provides most of the difficulties with fingery moves on side-pulls, with always the nagging question as to whether to clip the crucial bolt or push on and risk the mega-lob. There is an infamous rest at half-height. © Rockfax
FA. Ron Fawcett 1985. Malham's first 8a and also one of the first in the UK. A magnificent effort which has stood the test of time. "Nearly 8a+" Steve McClure - OTE 2003..
Ticklists
THE classic old skool 8a's , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , UK 8a and up , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Classic Lobs , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , The list , Summer '25
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Cooke | 16 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: A long quickdraw on the tricky bolt makes clipping easier (it isn't that bad anyway!). It also reduces rope drag at the top of the route, which is noticable if you don't do this. All in all, a route of exeptional quality and one which is definately stiff for the grade. With what is predominantly a fitness orientated route, this alone wont get you up it. You have to pull pretty hard too! The "infamous" rest refers to the first ascentionist wearing a helmet to wedge his head into the cave in order to gain a hands off rest. The story goes that the second ascentionist managed a hands off rest also, but without the helmet! I unfortunately found no such rest and instead opted for the standard arm alternating! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A long quickdraw on the tricky bolt makes clipping easier (it isn't that bad anyway!). It also reduces rope drag at the top of the route, which is noticable if you don't do this. All in all, a route of exeptional quality and one which is definately stiff for the grade. With what is predominantly a fitness orientated route, this alone wont get you up it. You have to pull pretty hard too! The "infamous" rest refers to the first ascentionist wearing a helmet to wedge his head into the cave in order to gain a hands off rest. The story goes that the second ascentionist managed a hands off rest also, but without the helmet! I unfortunately found no such rest and instead opted for the standard arm alternating! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Malham Cove
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Soft Option
Grade: 8a ***
(Kilnsey)