UKC

36m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A spectacular route that is easier for the supple and/or long legged.
1) 5a, 15m. Climb cracks that split the left-hand face (looking out) and move right to a small stance.
2) 5a, 20m. Climb up until it is possible to straddle the groove (exposed) then continue to a niche on the left - possible stance. Finish up the chimney and right-trending grassy ramp above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Has recently suffered the loss of part of a flake, the remainder of which is reported as suspect.

FA. Joe Brown, Ron Moseley early 1950s 1952.

Ticklists

Definitive *** Peak Lime , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Hardest HVSs in the Peak , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak , Dunc's ticklist

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User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 10 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best routes I've done in a while, reasonably steady 5a to a semi hanging belay on small ledges on the right, (tat just above but plenty of wires around near the peg and up right below the tat, don't belay at the level of the tat). Start the 2nd pitch by going left onto the chimney, (think about which way Joe would have gone, ie not straight up) this is tricky but immediately gains a bridging rest, (the guide is misleading in saying go up as this would lead you away from the groove). Once in the chimney go up it easily a short way (some vegitation) before forced into lots of wild bridging gains the top groove on the right (some lose rock but easy), just near the top of the groove an easy step left over a block gains a belay on the cliff top at an obvious tree and or wires in a horizontal crack behind. It is a 30m abseil from here or easy walk off so you can retrive any gear you leave to abseil off. Topping out direct is possible but losers and there is no belay so why would you ignore the obvious?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the best routes I've done in a while, reasonably steady 5a to a semi hanging belay on small ledges on the right, (tat just above but plenty of wires around near the peg and up right below the tat, don't belay at the level of the tat). Start the 2nd pitch by going left onto the chimney, (think about which way Joe would have gone, ie not straight up) this is tricky but immediately gains a bridging rest, (the guide is misleading in saying go up as this would lead you away from the groove). Once in the chimney go up it easily a short way (some vegitation) before forced into lots of wild bridging gains the top groove on the right (some lose rock but easy), just near the top of the groove an easy step left over a block gains a belay on the cliff top at an obvious tree and or wires in a horizontal crack behind. It is a 30m abseil from here or easy walk off so you can retrive any gear you leave to abseil off. Topping out direct is possible but losers and there is no belay so why would you ignore the obvious?
AlistairBerridge 23 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Tat has been replaced at P1 abseil. Old stuff needs cutting away
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tat has been replaced at P1 abseil. Old stuff needs cutting away
Andy Reeve 10 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It should be pointed out in the guide that there are no belays on top of the cliff, just a grassy knoll. Walk backwards over the hill to belay - bit dodge!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It should be pointed out in the guide that there are no belays on top of the cliff, just a grassy knoll. Walk backwards over the hill to belay - bit dodge!

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 10
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Baldstones Arête

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Newstones and Baldstones)

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