Rockfax Description
18m. A Roaches' classic and a good test of your jamming technique. Climb into the groove then thug up the polished corner crack to the overhang and exit rapidly rightwards to easier ground.The crack is renown for eating poorly placed gear, care required lest you lose your prized possession. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1947

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, The Pearson-Tanner Roaches Expedition, World Graded List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Roaches HVS Challenge, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The V.S.+ Ticklist, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist.

ian d f 24/Sep 2nd O/S
with Marion, Tim Chulwick
Hidden 22/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep Lead O/S
TomKingston 16/Sep Lead
ned_85 16/Sep 2nd
with Tom Kingston
guy757 02/Sep -
Tim_C7 02/Sep Lead O/S
with Luke Williams
mark44 02/Sep 2nd O/S
with Lawson
Hidden 28/Aug 2nd rpt
Hidden 27/Aug Lead O/S
Andrew171 27/Aug 2nd
with Blake
mrstarwarsman 20/Aug 2nd
with Katie P
uphillnow 20/Aug Lead rpt

more polished now. Two days after 73rd birthday.

samkat 20/Aug 2nd dog
with Nick Edwards
stephenmckenzie 20/Aug 2nd β

Tried to lead but lack of jamming abilities and a dampish route meant backed off and did on second.

with Simon Mee
katiep 20/Aug Lead O/S

Great route but found the crack pretty intense!

with Paddy
Hidden 20/Aug 2nd dnf
rickeden 14/Aug 2nd
mrphilipoldham 14/Aug Lead dog

Throw a good arm jam in and thrutch. That jug/heel hook combo seems to go against the whole point of the route! Clean next time.

JamesRich 09/Aug 2nd O/S
Stanners 09/Aug Lead O/S

everyday im jammin

with Alex Rhodes, Tab, James Rich
DubyaJamesDubya 06/Aug Lead rpt
with Joe Harris
Hidden 06/Aug Lead dog
ned_85 05/Aug Lead
SamStrong93 05/Aug 2nd
with Neil
Malaka 30/Jul Lead dog
with Martin
jimmysdead 08/Jul 2nd RP

Failed to lead it after Mike came down from the crux. Seconded up clean, finally, after Mike powered through on lead again.

with Mike
Euan Todd 06/Jul Lead O/S

Good route, felt quite hard but then it was my first grit jamming route. Really safe, just physically tough. Managed it with a couple of jams and some very wide bridged feet. Harder than the Sloth, for sure.

CRead 05/Jul Lead dog


with Dave Baddeley
mskngch 02/Jul Lead O/S
poeter210 01/Jul 2nd rpt
poeter210 01/Jul Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Jul Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Jul 2nd rpt
Ky 12/Jun Lead G/U
with Paul Deane
James S 28/May Lead O/S
with melty
Rob Jarratt 23/May 2nd

The jamming bit was fine, bomber jams really, the overhang was pretty awkward though.

with Tony Sawyer
Hidden 23/May Lead dog
Lazer sk eh 20/May Lead O/S
with mark
Hidden 14/May Lead O/S
kingjam 10/May Lead dog

dogged this a bit , easy when you know the moves

with rich a
WilliamRupp 10/May 2nd
with mark, felix
FelixJT 10/May Lead
paulsross 07/May Lead dnf

Fell off from the crack. Managed it on 2nd attempt but then fell off getting over the overhang. Too pumped for a 3rd attempt. Probably not a good choice for first gritstone HVS.

with Phil Biglands
petecallaghan 01/May 2nd O/S
with Tim
timreynolds 01/May Lead O/S
EllieWoods 01/May 2nd O/S
with Tim
a_m154 29/Apr 2nd

Need to improve jamming technique! Slipped before the overhang

Chris Ebbutt 29/Apr 2nd
with Seb
keepguessing 29/Apr Lead O/S
with Chris
themattyshep 29/Apr Lead O/S
with admcne
admcne 29/Apr 2nd dnf

Didn't have the jamming technique to make it up to the second overhang. Will come back when technique is better and I'm stronger.

atthedropofahat 29/Apr Lead dog

Bloody hard work

hotfeet 23/Apr -
Neil McA 22/Apr Lead rpt
with Jake McAdie
BenRyle 18/Apr Lead O/S
with Ian Grobowski
Hidden 09/Apr 2nd O/S
bigbobbyking 08/Apr 2nd
with Chris Bull
robgixer 08/Apr 2nd rpt
crossleysm 08/Apr Lead
with Aiden Morris, robgixer
mrphilipoldham 05/Apr Lead dnf

Cruised up to the roof, then all hell broke loose. Finished up pumped and unable to surmount.

Andrew Abraham 02/Apr Lead rpt
Rosie Henstock 02/Apr Lead dog

Honest Hard work. Finally found a less strenuous, less reachy way through the overlap. Good fun!

with Tommy B
Mike W 02/Apr 2nd
Melonfly ?/Apr 2nd O/S
with James
phildawson 26/Mar Lead O/S
with Jonny Davey
jonathandavey 26/Mar 2nd
with Phil
amccann 25/Mar Lead O/S
Nick1812P 25/Mar Lead O/S
with Jake
Jake Young 25/Mar 2nd rpt
with Nick
JRJones 11/Mar Lead O/S

interesting moves through the overlap

foobar123 05/Feb 2nd dog

Can't jam so knackered myself laying back the crack. Would be good to come back with some beta and better technique.

Hidden 05/Feb Lead dog
Hidden ??/2017 2nd
Ids1165 ??/2017 Lead
tom_lewis89 06/Nov/16 2nd dog

Wet, snowy, slippy, dangled. Cool move over the crux tho once i figured it out and the arms were working!

Barrie Schofield II 06/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Heavy rain, a slight hangover and a lot of grunting all played their part in making this a surprisingly enjoyable escapade. Type 1.5 fun.

Stefan_TR 06/Nov/16 -

Thanks to Barrie for leading this. manged to get through it despite the rain/sleet. Added Entertainment at the end as I got wedged in the last crack and decided to use Barrie's legs to get me through the last move ;)

melv 09/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with Fi
Fiona Hughes 09/Oct/16 2nd
with SP
luke glaister 09/Oct/16 Lead rpt

Nice to come back and cream it 3 years after the dogged onsight attempt...

Hidden 09/Oct/16 Lead
KatOstrich 08/Oct/16 Lead dnf

Took over the lead to try and get over the roof. Failed.

with Camilla
khalidq 06/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Liz Caspar
PeteWilson 04/Oct/16 Lead rpt

couple years since I first did it, im a little better at jamming now :) . found it a lot easier. proper good route, did it twice!

Keiran.A 24/Sep/16 Lead
with luara benn, adrian scalling
MusicalMountaineer 18/Sep/16 2nd rpt

Easier on the second...

with Joe
fuzzysheep01 18/Sep/16 2nd O/S
eduardo 18/Sep/16 Lead G/U

Straightforward, after a DNF about 10 years ago...

with guy, Joe
Wendy Watthews 17/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Last route of the day, and one of the last teams off of the crag

with JakeB.
Hidden 17/Sep/16 Lead dog
EllaMain 14/Aug/16 2nd β
Dale Comley 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Ollie Torr
Calum Wadsworth 03/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Very pleasant

with Shaun H
lizzie789 31/Jul/16 Lead dnf

Fell off! Had a bit more of a go after but then decided to leave it. Need to work on my jamming skills!!

with Steve
Joecartmell 31/Jul/16 Lead
Andrew Martin 31/Jul/16 2nd
with Julian
benwmorgan 24/Jul/16 2nd
with Rollo
Rollo 24/Jul/16 Lead dog

Tested my jamming skills, came up wanting. I will be back.

with Ben M
Keiran.A 17/Jul/16 2nd
with Ryan
Ryanmcd 17/Jul/16 Lead dog

Multiple falls. Tough time! Great belay by Keiran A.

with Keiran
MusicalMountaineer 07/Jul/16 Lead dnf

Not 5a, not in another lifetime! Didn't have the weapons after the first crux and the crack. Tough. But fun!

DanChad 05/Jul/16 Lead dnf

Couldn't figure out the jamming section. It'll go another day.

sjbrook 03/Jul/16 2nd dog

I was worst than when I lead it!

with Mark, PMC
Mike Turner 25/Jun/16 Lead dnf
pauldrew 24/Jun/16 2nd
with Dennis Wong, Jim Jones
tobydunford 05/Jun/16 Lead
with Simon Thursz
Andrew Abraham 04/Jun/16 2nd rpt
with Jordan Hollins
mossrug 16/May/16 Lead RP
with Rob
Hidden 15/May/16 2nd dog
mossrug 15/May/16 Lead dog
with Rob
rajeshwarbisht 14/May/16 Lead dnf
with Kane
Hidden 13/May/16 -
rob.swifty 03/May/16 2nd dnf

Did not start. Graham started to lead but struggled with the "basin" half way up. Dan lead next and struggled to make progress in the crack. I didn't even attempt. Nice place for photos though.

superturbo 19/Apr/16 Lead O/S
dr_botnik 19/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Capricorn One 17/Apr/16 2nd dog

Tough slab/crack section, awesome heel hook move to pass the roof.

with Antonio
Heather Osborne 13/Apr/16 Lead G/U

Smashing route. Found the crack under the final overhang hard, put gear where I wanted my hands, then got knackered moving it around. Struggled for a while but couldn't seem to move my feet up, was worn out and super cold so came down. Pulled the ropes and went up again and somehow managed to haul myself up on the hand jams, and get my foot up into the crack. Got my heel up and rocked over on the overhang which felt awesome! Was really pleased to climb it second go, and it definitely achieved my aim of working on my jams! Will definitely be back and climb it again sometime.

Matt Smith 05/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Chuffed to get this clean. Used a combination of bridging, laybacking, heel hooking and even jamming to get through crux.

AJMullen ?/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Antonio Ferra ?/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Andrew Abraham 31/Mar/16 Lead rpt
nickwhimster 31/Mar/16 2nd rpt
with Tyler Whimster, Andrew Abraham
Dogwood 31/Mar/16 Lead dog
Keith Swainson 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Georgie
Georgie25 25/Mar/16 2nd
jon_gill1 20/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with simon a
TwofoZeus 20/Mar/16 2nd dog
Tommy_shaw 19/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Henry Brett 12/Mar/16 2nd dnf
Tom McCabe 12/Mar/16 Lead β

Supprised at how much of it wasn't jams. Made easier by chalk leading me to face holds.

Laurence20 25/Feb/16 Lead dnf

First trad fall in ages, foot popped before crux (thanks red offset..) . Got back on and realised how appalling I am at jams. Confidence disappeared and lowered off.

with Brendan Greene
GouldHarry ??/2016 Lead
thomas108 ??/2016 -
craig.england1 ??/2016 2nd dog
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Rob Kinsey ??/2016 Lead
with AndrewH
FelixPeterken 26/Oct/15 2nd O/S

tough and awkward

with AndrewP
AndrewP 26/Oct/15 Lead O/S
alexspurling 25/Oct/15 Lead dog

Absolute battle but great fun.

with Juan
adamre12 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Well good. Nothing wrong with gear if you place it right. Proper jamming.

idlefoddie 17/Oct/15 2nd
The Grist 17/Oct/15 2nd
steely 15/Oct/15 2nd O/S
tom bre 14/Oct/15 2nd dog

Would of loved to climb this clean but two falls and rests - ace route will have to return

Hidden 14/Oct/15 Lead
Hidden 11/Oct/15 Lead dnf
CharlieMack 06/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Angus
matt.stevenson 04/Oct/15 Lead dog
Amy Sears 04/Oct/15 2nd
albarnett93 04/Oct/15 2nd dog
JenShelley 27/Sep/15 Lead dog

Made it up the jamming crack then fell off pulling up over the overhang.

with Anne
Dan Vaj 26/Sep/15 2nd O/S
mark4344 26/Sep/15 Lead rpt
with Dan Vaj
BarbsMurray 13/Sep/15 2nd
with Roger Mear, Mikey
Dexter JW 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Desperate crux move! After getting pumped trying to find a calmer way, resorted to brute force.

with Popz
Becky 20/Aug/15 2nd dog
Chris Sansum 15/Aug/15 Lead rpt


with Andy Reading
Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead dnf
Simonfarfaraway 08/Aug/15 Lead
with Shaw
Jake Young 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this :)

Hidden 02/Aug/15 2nd
Felix la shat ?/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Callum van Werkhoven 29/Jul/15 2nd RP
with Will Murphy
Will Murphy 29/Jul/15 Lead

Lead on cals gear at the bottom half after the crux got the better of him! Really hard climbing at the crux and quite scary too! Took a pretty big fall from the crux too, which was an experience to say the least

with Cal
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Bernie L 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S
RobScarisbrick 12/Jul/15 2nd O/S

needed the slack taking in to sure up my confidence but refused to sit on the rope

with Bernie
petegruf 10/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with john e, patrick h
lanky and weak 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 30/Jun/15 Lead rpt
manxclare 27/Jun/15 2nd
with jon22
Guss1 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
jon22 27/Jun/15 Lead
sorchawilliams 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S
mcmitch 21/Jun/15 2nd dog
fulton333 18/Jun/15 Lead
richshark 11/Jun/15 2nd O/S
guy757 11/Jun/15 -
Hidden 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Alex@home 09/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with The Doctor
codenamel 08/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Jared
FlavioL1989 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Roaches HVS Challenge #19

Manc88 07/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Bailed on the bulging crack - high protection needed next time!

MichaelGallimore 07/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!

with Flavio
Andrew Abraham 06/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with Chris Wallis, Paul Sherman
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 03/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with Alan James, Tom Ripley
Alan James - UKC and UKH 03/Jun/15 2nd
Rob Davies 01/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Only just did this clean - crack beneath overhang was a bit damp

with Angus McLean
Ram MkiV 26/May/15 2nd rpt
with noaks
James Oakes 26/May/15 Lead O/S
KeenClimber 21/May/15 Lead
rock_hopp5r 15/May/15 Lead G/U
philmitch 10/May/15 Lead dog

Had to rest on gear at the crux.

Hidden 26/Apr/15 2nd
g1m147 26/Apr/15 Lead

Awkward move over the roof. Straightforward other than that.

Tim Rodgers 25/Apr/15 Lead
robertmichaellovell 25/Apr/15 2nd
with Tim
oread 18/Apr/15 2nd
Jon Read 14/Apr/15 2nd
with Keith L
pulseroom 07/Apr/15 2nd O/S


MarcinGobczynski 07/Apr/15 Lead O/S
lee1234 25/Mar/15 2nd O/S
with HarryG
Hidden 22/Mar/15 2nd dog
poeter210 22/Mar/15 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Stroppy 07/Mar/15 Lead rpt
jack_44 07/Mar/15 2nd
Albachoss 07/Mar/15 2nd β
with Ed
OliverRoss 15/Feb/15 Lead dog

Was aiming to do humdinger as it looked dry, but got stuck facing the wrong way in the shelf and escaped onto this, which was hideously wet. Had to rest at the start of the crack.

with Alasdair Dickinson, Shannon Boardman
dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2015 -
robgixer ??/2015 Lead
GouldHarry ??/2015 Lead
GouldHarry ??/2015 Lead
Murilo Lessa 06/Dec/14 Lead dnf

After almost 6 months with no trad did not have the balls to finish :-(

with Alex Desborough
Murilo Lessa 06/Dec/14 2nd rpt
with Alex Desborough
Murilo Lessa 06/Dec/14 Lead RP

Manage to get away of the jamming by just using some lay backing.

with Alex Desborough
adam 24 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Stuart Johnston 01/Nov/14 2nd O/S
Jackwd 28/Oct/14 2nd O/S
charley 28/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Great route! Didn't climb the first part of the crack too well, struggled finding jams that I was comfortable with but managed to stay on and get up it. Regained a few style points with the second half of the route though & enjoyed the short off-width section at the top

with JackD
Hidden 27/Oct/14 2nd
leoch01 18/Oct/14 2nd
with Ben Simpkims
Katsmiff 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Required some huffing and puffing to get up this plus some serious fist and hand jamming.

with Justyn Philpot
Hidden 28/Sep/14 TR
clairemathews 27/Sep/14 2nd
Julesthe1st 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Laura, Paul Wolf
Rafal Malczyk 27/Sep/14 Lead dog

I rested on a nut about the crux

with Claire Matthews
KeenClimber 22/Sep/14 Lead dog
jrccrosby 21/Sep/14 2nd RP

Took a pretty big fall out of the crack, feet were wrong but at least now I can trust my gear!

Theeni 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Joseph
sgl 15/Sep/14 Lead
with Susie
Hidden 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Drew M 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
philhilo 14/Sep/14 2nd rpt

Finally discovered the elegant way to do the overhang, rather than grovel as has been my usual want over the years.

with Helen E
Hidden 06/Sep/14 2nd dog
fuzzysheep01 06/Sep/14 Lead dog
with Naomi Walker
MattKettle 06/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
lizzieliveshere ?/Sep/14 2nd RP
Helen Gibson ?/Sep/14 -
with Al Palmer
chris smith 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Hard and pumpy a real struggle if you can't hand jam well (like me) but constant good protection.

benlatham07 09/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Brannock 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Good jamming.

Mark Collins 31/Jul/14 Lead dog

Slightly cr*per than last years effort.

with Neil Henson
gavster 29/Jul/14 Lead dog
with ruth
Ruthie 29/Jul/14 2nd dog

Did it much better than last time , I rested a bit as got very pumped but didn't fall or get pulled up like last time , it was worth coming back to and working on

Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
soph 23/Jul/14 2nd
with Lindy Smith
Alex Winter 21/Jul/14 2nd rpt

9 on Staffordshire nose. More pleasant than I remembered.

with Nick
Nick Russell 21/Jul/14 Lead rpt

9/31. Found the jamming more steady this time.

dbm 20/Jul/14 TR dog
with Tom P
TP 20/Jul/14 TR
with Dave M
Stoff 17/Jul/14 2nd dog

I found the overhang relatively easy but getting to it was a nightmare !!! Yet more proof I can't jam !

with gpcomps
gpcomps 17/Jul/14 Lead dog

More like an aid climb below the overhang, but pleased to have completed. The technical grade seems low

martintom 12/Jul/14 2nd
leon 07/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Alex
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 05/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead dog
martinov 29/Jun/14 Lead dog

With Rado and Unai. Had to rest on a nut after the crux, got pumped after the roof.

with Radoslav Savov
dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd dog
08nbrierley 29/Jun/14 Lead dog

had a couple of rests before the overhang

with jamie
poigol5043 28/Jun/14 2nd
PeteWilson 22/Jun/14 Lead
Joris.Roulleau 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Used first few pieces of gear left by Jon who didn't make it to the roof on lead. Still a battle, but I felt a lot less helpless than a few years ago.

with Jonathan
benlatham07 21/Jun/14 Lead dog
Jack93 21/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Finally got back on and did it clean on the same day it spat me off last year!

Hidden 19/Jun/14 Lead
DanielGyi 19/Jun/14 Lead
M_Robinson 19/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Dan Williams, DanielGyi
Senna 19/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Piers
Hidden 18/Jun/14 2nd dog
john_ni 14/Jun/14 Lead dnf
with Dave Stacey
Ruthie 13/Jun/14 TR dog
gavster 13/Jun/14 TR
with ruth, rob
Rob Royle 13/Jun/14 TR

Lead it to start with but failed at the crux - battered me!!! Set a top rope up and we all managed to get up one way or another......... It's a true HVS - tough climb!

with Ruth, Gav
hervenuttall ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Elliot
friendzone1234 ?/Jun/14 Lead dog

Hex got stuck on the crux and had to reverse then rested

mattsmithuk 27/May/14 2nd dnf
with Sam Howell
noemie5438 26/May/14 2nd
with Ian P.
morganator 26/May/14 Lead O/S
soph 26/May/14 2nd
Hog Dog 21/May/14 2nd dnf

Couldn't get over the overhang

with Laurence Cowton
GOS 17/May/14 Lead dog

2 rests; at final o/hang couldn't reach good hold on left so traversed right to tree and up and back to route!

with 5eamuz
5eamuz 17/May/14 2nd dog
ColinD 15/May/14 Lead

3*, 3 ways, my way wasn't one of them. Brilliant.

with Craig
Hidden 14/May/14 2nd rpt
Whitmoreaa 05/May/14 Lead dog

FIRST TRAD LEAD FALL! Scraped my way up after getting massively pumped in the lower section of the crack, took john ages to get my panic placed hex out..

with John Eccles
RyanOsborne 04/May/14 2nd dog
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd dnf
RFWilkie 03/May/14 Lead dog

Annoyed to not get this clean for a second time, just a bit casual with the first jam and slipped out.

with Nathan
Bryan M ?/May/14 2nd
morganator 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
soph 11/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Paul Hy 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Deacon led it

Rob Davies 30/Mar/14 Lead dog

Nightmare - tight hands crack followed by an overhang!

with Mike Jones
deacondeacon 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S

strenuous but basic. possibly overated ;)

Hidden 30/Mar/14 2nd RP
AshBash 30/Mar/14 Lead RP
with Mike
Andypeak 30/Mar/14 2nd
Drew Bennett 30/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead dnf
Matt Cooke 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Rosh
AndrewJamesCherry 01/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Stefan_Morris 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/14 TR dog
Hidden ??/2014 -
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
jimxxx ??/2014 -
Mike Hood 25/Nov/13 2nd
with jordan
Hidden 24/Nov/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead dog
Unknownbiker 06/Oct/13 2nd
with Simon Burn
ChrisBrooke 06/Oct/13 Lead rpt
with Nick Barratt
Russ 30/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Excellent, pumpy, but not too much, very good gear, crux possibly much harder

with Dave Saxby
edmitchell 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Great route - there's a couple of ways of going through the roof, and its possible to avoid jamming if you're a bit taller. I'm not, so it was just a case of plugging in a solid hand and pulling.

will randall 29/Sep/13 Lead
with sarah
Mark Collins 28/Sep/13 Lead dog

Pleased just to reach the top after what feels like many attempts backed off over the years due to being scared. Still need to improve jamming, but my new crack gloves do inspire confidence.

with Derek Robinson
mark4344 27/Sep/13 Lead dog

brilliant route. mis read overhang though and the need to head left for hand holds to heal hook.

with Matt Payne
Hidden 23/Sep/13 Lead RP
jjclarke70 22/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 22/Sep/13 2nd dog
egg-man 22/Sep/13 TR dog
with John Pickles
Jim Slater 21/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Joe.Elliott1 14/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/13 Lead dnf
Dan3266 31/Aug/13 AltLd dnf
with Simon Gladstone
GStone 31/Aug/13 Lead dog
Climbster 30/Aug/13 2nd β
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Lovely climbing, calves were burning after warming up on this!

with Matt
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd
stuart34 22/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Jake boi
Tony7553 21/Aug/13 TR O/S
jamesgodwin64 15/Aug/13 Lead dnf

got soaked just before the overhang bit backed off and still got the OS :D

with Chiris Fox
casey johns 11/Aug/13 2nd dnf

Hard! That is all

with Andrew willie wilson, luke glaister
luke glaister 11/Aug/13 Lead dog

Welcome to grit.... well pleased with myself for even trying to lead this. My first time on grit. Lovely stuff.

Jules Lane 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Great route, pretty much at my limit. Found the jams ok and managed the overhang first go - good job too !

with Mynydd Dave K
David Kay 11/Aug/13 Lead RP

Round 2: Better equipped with cams and jamming technique this time round. Still felt 'ard though!

JEP 06/Aug/13 Lead rpt
crossleysm ?/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Jul/13 2nd
rob.grafton 27/Jul/13 -
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
mapperley samurai 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Great route. Even with some flashy technical prowess on the roof still only just made it - totally spent.

MoWalker3 20/Jul/13 -
with Rich
Tala A 17/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Great route, will be back to lead when I'm not pregnant.

fabricio 11/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Shaun
djones66 08/Jul/13 Lead dog

Pumpy route on a hot day; I rested on a hex at the crux. Only way I could do it (not a big chap, me)was to use the jugs on the left and then swing my right foot up - but the jugs were very hard to reach. Remains to be seen whether I'll bother having another attempt at a clean lead. High in the grade.

with Stve mc D
augustus trout 07/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Max Bretherton
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
BALD EAGLE 05/Jul/13 2nd
Nick Russell 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S

My rusty jamming technique got me up to the roof, then a couple of gymnastic moves got me over - good fun!

Tanner 27/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/13 Lead β
Alistair Corbett 21/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with james
Jack93 21/Jun/13 Lead dog

I'll be back for this clean... Spent too long trying to work out what to do at the crux so I was too tired to actually do it.

sk8world19 10/Jun/13 TR dog
with ricky
RichyBOYY 09/Jun/13 Lead
Matt_C9716 07/Mar/13 2nd
j.buckley87 02/Mar/13 2nd O/S
mikespooner 17/Feb/13 Lead dog
Stroppy 17/Feb/13 2nd β

Thanks to Spooner for the lead. Got it first time on second (having the sequence worked out made it a lot easier). Stiff at 5a but not too bad once you work it out. The right hand crack is still evil.

Will Hunt 17/Feb/13 Lead RP

After attempting it as, I think, my 5th lead I swore never to go back!

Sam Husband 17/Feb/13 2nd O/S

Claiming it despite having to let go to hammer out a nut low down.... there is a nice sequence and it helps if you have watched someone do it before you as its not the most obvious!

with Ed
RKirke 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Stroppy 16/Feb/13 Lead dnf

I hate this climb, the moves up the right hand crack! Grrr!

David Woods ??/2013 2nd dog

First time on grit and didn't know whether to layback or jam. Flummoxed and spat out.

adie84 ??/2013 -
Andrew will wilson ??/2013 2nd
Rob Gillespie ??/2013 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Oct/12 Lead dog
Chriswallis2 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Anna
PaulTanton 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Some testing jamming up the grove but not too hard. I didn’t try and jam over the top bulge but reached up left and got my right foot on the creaky flake to rock over. Nice and gymnastic.

with Bruce Woodley
therat 14/Oct/12 -
thomasmouse 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
gooberman-hill 14/Oct/12 2nd
with adrian crofton
gidmord 13/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Flores
joedoherty 08/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Fell off due to wet moss in crack.

with Josh Rigby
Wayne S 22/Sep/12 Lead

One fall

Hidden 15/Sep/12 2nd dog
centurion05 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ian Llewellyn
Adam Booth 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Jamming practice. Jammed the whole thing which is very unusual for me!

Ellen Cobby 09/Sep/12 2nd dog
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Whitters 08/Sep/12 2nd β
Alex.M-M. 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
john lynch 07/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Lewis Andrew
sjbrook 01/Sep/12 Lead dog

pumped out franticly trying to work out the crux and had to rest on gear. got it after rest. will get it clean next time!

with PMC
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Hannes B 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Mark H
Mark Warnett ?/Aug/12 Lead β

hard for indoor trained climbers!

nepsoi999 31/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd dog
Olli-C 27/Jul/12 2nd rpt

Felt easy this time

Rachel Slater 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Amazing route. Better than it looks from the ground.

sambosanquet101 21/Jul/12 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/12 Lead
Webster 18/Jun/12 Lead dnf

couldnt get to the roof, the crack was to thin and flared for me to get a good jam, think it needs to be laybacked. the roof looks easier than the crack but i will have to go back and find out.

tatz45 10/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Jun/12 2nd
clipskipper 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Knarly route - grateful for the jugs on the finish

with Andy Gardner
gd303uk 01/Jun/12 Lead dnf

messed this up,

gd303uk 01/Jun/12 2nd β

Easier when you see how it's done, lead next time I am there.

Hidden ?/Jun/12 Lead β
steve2006 26/May/12 2nd O/S

I was glad Andrew lead this my crack technic needs improving! even as a second I thought this was difficult to climb.

guy757 24/May/12 -
Hidden 24/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 23/May/12 Lead RP
stratandrew 20/May/12 Lead dog

Nails. Need to improve my jamming. I thought i'd got reasonably proficient but this just shows I have much to learn....

with Dimitris
salonikaboulder 17/May/12 2nd dog

climbed with busted right knee!!

saffy 12/May/12 Lead rpt
ranga 12/May/12 2nd
Hidden 05/May/12 Lead O/S
puppythedog 04/May/12 Lead dnf

Down climbed, I willing to bet I can do it but it would take a siege (potentially me going up and down a few times and generally taking an hour) I'm not the best with Jams.

The Dangler 03/May/12 2nd dog

A very polished route but would go with a bit of work!

Hidden 03/May/12 Lead dog
davespider ?/May/12 AltLd
with mickey seule, jules mckim
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead β
Ceridwen 07/Apr/12 2nd dnf

This was soaking wet, with a huge patch of sepidge from the roof down down to we're the hard bit starts. Fair play Timmy for getting up it!

with Tim Hobby, Pete Staves
timmyhobby 07/Apr/12 Lead dog


matty123 05/Apr/12 2nd
MarkRoe 05/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Definitely 3 stars. The crack and roof section is awesome.

Andrew Sandercock 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S


with robert sandercock
saffy 25/Mar/12 Lead dog
Jenny Clarke ?/Mar/12 2nd
with dave
Hidden 25/Feb/12 2nd O/S
krepel 15/Jan/12 2nd RP
Alex@home 15/Jan/12 2nd rpt
with The Doctor
Hidden 01/Jan/12 Lead
Charlie Zephyr Booth ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with martin broadhurst
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
JamesP ??/2012 -
Rob Gillespie ??/2012 Lead dog
Hidden 18/Nov/11 2nd dnf
mark20 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Anthony Dixon 29/Oct/11 Lead
riff156 01/Oct/11 Lead dog
with Jo Smith
Alex Winter 30/Sep/11 Lead O/S

The crack proper offers a couple of tasty moves. Other than that I thought it was awkward, polished and overrated. Had a right thrash getting over the roof.

with Paul from Colchester, J. Iles-Smith
Keendan 28/Sep/11 Lead rpt

Found the jamming nice, but the roof a bit more tricky than I remember. Got my left foot really high and it felt wrong.

stephenhartley 27/Sep/11 Lead
with Burns
Hidden 27/Sep/11 Lead dnf
rosieposey14 24/Sep/11 2nd
Dan Geh 22/Sep/11 Lead O/S

pretty pumpy!

JaseSSDD 22/Sep/11 2nd dog
with Ian Barker
tgeh 22/Sep/11 2nd O/S

not too bad once you work out the moves

with adam jordan, dan geh
nadeem 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/11 Lead
Rob Laird 10/Sep/11 2nd dog

Started to lead it, but couldn't work out the upper crack. Disappointed, but I'll be back...

Hidden 10/Sep/11 2nd dog
Hidden 10/Sep/11 2nd O/S
pete_fewings 10/Sep/11 2nd β
CRiddiford 03/Sep/11 2nd dog

broken and in the damp/wet

with Jonny
Hidden ?/Sep/11 -
AMJ098 ?/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Dan Geh
Hidden ?/Sep/11 -
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Aug/11 2nd dog
Dan Lane 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Hard work and pretty polished! Half jammed half laybacked the crux section. nice moves all the way, although the jug on the roof is a little creaky?

with Vicky Jennings, Luke Donaldson
sgl0jd 17/Aug/11 -
thomasaneurinsmith 05/Aug/11 2nd
with Neil Redgrave, Stuart Reeves
stuaart 05/Aug/11 Lead dog

Had to rest on the overhang. For shame.

with Thomas Smith, Neil Redgrave
Hidden 27/Jul/11 -
Ali.B 27/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Hard as nails!! and then some, unless u eat banana's for breakfast

fatbuoybazza 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
chrisallan 23/Jul/11 Lead dog
mes32 23/Jul/11 2nd

Chris had another nightmare. I had a cunning idea for the roof which worked-easy!

Mike Bayley 16/Jul/11 2nd dog
with Martin Hore
Hidden 13/Jul/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Takacs 11/Jul/11 2nd

found this pretty hard, not at all my style but managed to get to the top at least

with Laurence Everitt
centurion05 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S

straight forward, never hard HVS, good kit, easy pull through roof. good rests. 2 star

with benji
al99 03/Jul/11 2nd rpt
nathan2day 03/Jul/11 2nd
with Dominik Siedlecki
williamsd79 03/Jul/11 2nd
with Lee Wales
Chris Sansum 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Nathaelle Bouttes
The Wild Scallion 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Jack
jwpil 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Mat
Hidden 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
rikbattye 17/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/11 Lead dog
guy757 11/Jun/11 Lead
guy757 11/Jun/11 Lead
Frostie 09/Jun/11 AltLd
gingerwolf 07/Jun/11 Lead dog
jalien 04/Jun/11 Lead β

Nice variety - laybacking and a bit of overhang in one route. Like it!

Rich Malcolm 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Mick Brohan, Matt Brennan
Hixmclix 03/Jun/11 2nd dog
with oz baker
craig naylor 01/Jun/11 2nd
with nick
Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Phil PBC ?/Jun/11 AltLd
with henry castle
Jonathan Hall 31/May/11 Lead
Hidden 21/May/11 2nd
Chris Ebbutt 21/May/11 Lead
with Emma
Nick Rundall 10/May/11 Lead O/S

Found this very straight forward positive approach paid dividends also plays to my strengths

with Jon Taylor
Stewart Armstrong 02/May/11 -
with Ivan Bicknell
The Ivanator 02/May/11 2nd

Last climb of a good 3 days in the Peak. My jamming technique needs work.

with Stewart
monika paprzycka 01/May/11 2nd
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead
Dave Mahon ?/May/11 Lead
simonward 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead dog
Chi Cheng 09/Apr/11 Lead dog

Could not read the route, i make this the hardest 5a i have ever done. Will be back to get it clean.

with Bart Harris
Joe Grondowski 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Andy Grondowski
bnewman 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Well protected polished jams with a superb finish. Awesome!

with Amelia
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd dog
Keendan 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Really nice and technical. Liked the fist jam below the overhang.

Matt_L_Robinson 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Dafydd
Dafydd Llywelyn 13/Mar/11 2nd dog
David Kay 13/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Nearly got to the roof before taking a a fall onto the gear at my feet. Need a bit more jamming practice I think...

johnpuddephatt 13/Mar/11 2nd dog

Slipped off the crack but got through the crux after a few minutes' rest.

Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
shafiq lalloo 06/Mar/11 2nd

ooh what a bastard, superb route!

with Ben Ritchie
Phil Crudge 06/Mar/11 2nd
with Olli-C
Olli-C 06/Mar/11 Lead dog

Got into the crack got scared on jams, faffed with cams for ages wrong sizes, dropped, twisted propper lame. Rested on rope lowered to the slab got some psyche and did it :D well worth the effort.

with Dad
ldadams ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/11 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
RM199 ??/2011 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
highlux 21/Nov/10 Lead O/S

The roof move is hard for 5a. Awesome climb though!

masa-alpin 21/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Superb jamming and thought-provoking (very!) hard crux. Felt this routes beats Vector in Tremadog both in quality and difficulty!

with Brian Q
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead dog
freemanTom 17/Oct/10 Lead dnf

Utterly broke me, finished on second. A couple of mistakes rendered me pumped silly. Need to be less weak.

with Jon Proudfoot
ig248 16/Oct/10 Lead rpt
sian88 16/Oct/10 2nd dog
ushi 16/Oct/10 AltLd
ChrisBrooke 10/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with John Inkpen
Rick Ashton 10/Oct/10 Lead dnf
with andy gibb
andysroom ?/Oct/10 Lead dog
Andrew Abraham 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Nice route!

geddicakes 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with slim
monsteratt 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Fely pretty sready on this. The slightly flared crack beneath the roof was perhaps the least secure bit. Getting over the roof wasn't too bad, had some useful beta from Andy R

with Andy Reyner, Andrew Abraham
sam820 24/Sep/10 2nd
with Terry
Hidden 24/Sep/10 Lead dog
koalapie 18/Sep/10 TR β
markfairbank 12/Sep/10 2nd dog

One of these days i'll learn how to jam....

with Ray Sharples
Phill Mitch 05/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with bleggs
grp 01/Sep/10 Lead dog

great fun

Pilch 01/Sep/10 Lead

Only just made it through the overhang with a gymnastic leap, which thankfully worked as my gear walked and became useless. A fantastic line climbed at last

with Graham, Ed
hotfeet 30/Aug/10 Lead

one rest

eel 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead
riddle 21/Aug/10 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd dnf
Whitty2012 08/Aug/10 Lead dnf
matthomas79 02/Aug/10 2nd dog
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
pldarch 25/Jul/10 Lead RP
with Isabel
Audrey Seguy 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Duncan Skelton 17/Jul/10 Lead β
with Sue Jackson
Mike Turner 10/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Emma Hawkins, Steve Culverhouse
DaNo123 10/Jul/10 2nd
with martin
Hidden 10/Jul/10 2nd dog
Different Steve 10/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Emma Hawkins
drysori 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/10 Lead dnf
mark s 03/Jul/10 Lead
with gus
Shorty83 02/Jul/10 2nd
with Giles
anyes varenne ?/Jul/10 2nd
with suzanne
Gigga ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
JRae 23/Jun/10 Lead dog

Tough, very polished. Awesome route, ill be back for more!

with L Campbell
mlmatt 22/Jun/10 2nd
with Stuart Sherwood, Tim Nixon
Mitch1990 20/Jun/10 Lead
becster 19/Jun/10 2nd dog

Good effort babe, I had to rest as a second, very hard for the grade

Thinker01 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Becster
RFWilkie 19/Jun/10 Lead dog
matt.jj 05/Jun/10 2nd

A fine climb, requires strong arms. Ignore guidebook claims about exiting the crux to the right as this burned both of us out. A hold to the left and a heel hook gets you over the small overhang. Great fun!

Dave Mahon ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Great Jamming. Used jugs on left above, swinging feet up right.

Hidden ?/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead dog
smudge 26/May/10 Lead rpt
with Joe Shaw
neil0968 23/May/10 Lead
andy007 22/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Chris
michael burrows 22/May/10 2nd rpt
with phil biglands
chris ginge 22/May/10 Lead rpt

superb more of the same please

Hidden 21/May/10 Lead
hellboundblr 21/May/10 2nd
with Danny Smudge
wilkie14c 20/May/10 Lead
with Dave Clarke
Hidden 19/May/10 Lead O/S
Andy Hardy 19/May/10 Lead O/S

Standard jamming :)

Alistair Corbett 15/May/10 Lead dog

Hard! Did this in a poor fashion...

with ben peake
PanzerHanzler 14/May/10 Lead dog
DaNo123 14/May/10 2nd
with Hanzler
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/10 2nd
Hidden 27/Apr/10 2nd dog
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd
gingergeorge 24/Apr/10 Lead
with 15oth trg
manwithacam 19/Apr/10 Lead

some thinking about required, spent age in 'rest' position before tackling overhang. Great to do such a good line.

with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
davewsargent 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
gnc760 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Conor Clarke
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead
conorjclarke 17/Apr/10 2nd
peaches69 17/Apr/10 Lead rpt

tried route a while ago, defeated at the smeary/jamming crack coz it rained and i decided to gget into the niche, don't do it its soooo hard to get out of. did it clean this time but thought i was off when i started jamming but held it together

with sarah
crossdressingrodney 10/Apr/10 2nd dog
duncan 10/Apr/10 Lead dnf
chris ginge ?/Apr/10 Lead dog
jonnyboy 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
sweenyt 06/Feb/10 Lead dnf

Green and slimy, didn't help my feet or my jamming! Def try again when its dry.

with UBMC
jacobjlloyd 06/Feb/10 Lead dnf

A poor attempt at a streaming wet crack - came off from the roof and popped a stupid placement (didn't have the right sized cam, didn't rack well, entirely my fault) while heel hooking.. took an upside-down fall about five metres to the slab below. If I had any sense it would have been both safe and doable. One to learn from - my first fall on trad. Thanks for the beautiful soft catch John! Not a proud climbing moment.

with John Scarrott
cymjt ??/2010 -
pie_eater_pete ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
GF ??/2010 -
Ebarnes ??/2010 -
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
ozbaker ??/2010 2nd O/S

Managed to remove some poor guys stuck cam too

Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
peaches69 04/Nov/09 Lead dnf

heavy rain when getting to polished slab, very slippy so lowered of then abseiled of to retrieve gear

with sarah
Hidden 29/Oct/09 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd
ig248 17/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Andrew Marshall
Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd
DomWatson 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Karlos 26/Sep/09 Lead dog
with Tom
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Dux 21/Sep/09 2nd dog
Hidden 21/Sep/09 Lead dog
Hidden 19/Sep/09 2nd
climbergg 18/Sep/09 2nd
Tim M 18/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Emma
melonmike 13/Sep/09 2nd
david morse 13/Sep/09 Lead β
with mikey+em
Em66 13/Sep/09 2nd
with Mike, Morse
pauldrew 06/Sep/09 2nd
cem 05/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with Ben Gurney
joese7en ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
peter myers ?/Sep/09 Lead
with Tim Lewis
esther ?/Sep/09 2nd
Mike W 17/Aug/09 Lead O/S
AMarchant 17/Aug/09 Lead O/S

First proper experience with crack climbing, what an epic.

with Anthony Eccles
Jim Slater 15/Aug/09 Lead rpt

Clean ascent.

with Trevor Wilson
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
barni 07/Aug/09 2nd rpt
with Strong Jon
jonka ?/Aug/09 Lead
with sean
jepotherepo ?/Aug/09 Lead
with mike
odox 18/Jul/09 2nd dog

Tom led this when the crack was still wet. I got pumped trying to stay in the crack and get the gear out. Couldn't get the overhang roof. I'll come back for this one.

garywong 11/Jul/09 Lead dog

One rest at the overhang.

smolders 11/Jul/09 2nd dog
with Gary W
tomdude 04/Jul/09 2nd O/S

the overhang move is awesome

with rob
robertmichaellovell 04/Jul/09 Lead dog
with Tom
Hidden 02/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S
nathanroberts89 ?/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 26/Jun/09 2nd
Danhan 21/Jun/09 2nd
with Steve
jcurley 05/Jun/09 Lead dnf
with Horace
Hidden 04/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/09 2nd RP
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead O/S
Richard Hession 26/May/09 Lead O/S
with Moses
jak.kelly 25/May/09 Lead dog
with Lynnette Evans
Rampikino 24/May/09 Lead
with Cat
highclimber ?/May/09 -
Hidden ?/May/09 2nd
peter myers ?/May/09 TR
with Simon Halstead
willson 29/Apr/09 2nd
with ben
Hidden 26/Apr/09 -
Tom Eagle 24/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Dave Greenald
paul.valentine 13/Apr/09 2nd
with Dave Connelly
Oceanic 12/Apr/09 -
nikmorgan ?/Apr/09 2nd

Strenuous, had to rest on route.

rockjock0_1 ??/2009 -
with gary buckle
keith leonard ??/2009 -
koopa ??/2009 -
Sarah Applegate ??/2009 2nd
with Tom Stenson
Tom Eagle ??/2009 Lead rpt

Seemed more straightforward this time round!

with Dave Greenald
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 19/Oct/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Lead
clive-greenwood 12/Oct/08 Lead rpt
with Mark PJ
DavidR 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Holly Adamthwaite and Clive Greenwood
Hidden 06/Oct/08 2nd
Jim Slater 27/Sep/08 Lead dog

Took a couple of attempts at overhang, rested on gear

with Angus Malcolm, Phil Lee
richardhopton 25/Sep/08 Lead rpt
with Matt Thombs
Misha 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Dave Foster ?/Sep/08 2nd

Will be back to settle up with this one when the weather gets better.

with Dave P
Joris.Roulleau ?/Sep/08 Lead
with Nick
jam tart 31/Aug/08 Lead
plastichead 30/Aug/08 2nd dnf
with James
RocknRoll 26/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Nice route, some commitment and confident jamming required.

with David Kettle
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
CarolineH 16/Aug/08 2nd dog

Rested on crux. Awesome route though, definitely want to try this again!

with Dave
Bristoldave 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S
siah 08/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with hissey and gavin
IanJackson 17/Mar/08 Solo O/S

Quite straight forward. But still an amazing route!

with Robeverybody
ilikemonkys 09/Mar/08 Lead dog
feilx 23/Feb/08 Lead rpt
with Steve Mayer
Hidden 14/Feb/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Mancunianimport ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2008 -
Eddie Hung 03/Nov/07 Lead dnf

Took my first lead fall while attempting the crack!

with Dave Hodgkinson, James Smith
georgeevans88 ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Pete
deejmonkey 07/Oct/07 Lead
with Tom
tomparrott 07/Oct/07 2nd
with DJ
Ben1983 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Ben Griffiths 29/Sep/07 2nd dog
lundyman 09/Sep/07 2nd
PanzerHanzler 09/Sep/07 Lead dnf

Effed the first, second and third attempt and got pumped quicker each time!

PanzerHanzler 09/Sep/07 2nd dog

Still pumped from attempted lead and then cheated by using the jugs to the left.

MikeLeeds 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Was a bit wet.

with SteveM
SteveM 02/Sep/07 2nd dog
with Mike
b.hayley ?/Sep/07 2nd
31770 27/Aug/07 2nd rpt

previously lead with Rob Mead

Hidden 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Simon Holden (LCandCC) 12/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Matt Gordon
minaturechris 11/Aug/07 2nd
with Barra
Hidden 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
AJ007 11/Aug/07 Lead
with Brian
Hidden 11/Aug/07 Lead dnf
dan gibson 11/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with sam read
JWB 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Dan
Shaw Brown 03/Aug/07 2nd
with David Jones
mol ?/Aug/07 Lead
with Nick Lambert
Duncan Skelton 29/Jul/07 2nd
with Stuart
Hidden 29/Jul/07 Lead dog
Geras 28/Jul/07 Lead
with Kai
Andy Nicholson ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Simon Ager
Hidden ?/Jul/07 2nd
Hidden 18/Jun/07 -
Hidden 07/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier 06/Jun/07 Lead
Graeme Hammond 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Phil Johnson
max_chan 26/May/07 Lead rpt

Did this before years ago. Still found it hard though.

with Lou
Hidden 26/May/07 2nd O/S
bob3141 29/Apr/07 2nd dog

Pretty sustained 5a!!

with Oliver Mentz
Adam Humphreys 26/Apr/07 Lead

power on up over the overhang but steady on the lay back.

with Dunx
Dunx 26/Apr/07 2nd
with Adam
Hidden 22/Apr/07 Lead β
davek 21/Apr/07 2nd
with Jim
Charles 20/Apr/07 TR O/S

lol top roped it as there was a cam suck in one of the cracks half way up...

with Tom Fox
Chesh 18/Apr/07 2nd
with Paul Lestor
Hidden 11/Apr/07 2nd
Hidden 07/Apr/07 Lead dog
Ram MkiV 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Al
davek 21/Mar/07 2nd
with Shaun L
Andrew Sloan 11/Mar/07 Lead dog
with Steve Grove
spum ?/Mar/07 2nd
with ben jones
mattyork2 05/Feb/07 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Feb/07 2nd
MazElden ??/2007 2nd
Sidekick ??/2007 Lead rpt

second go...

timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Bullybones ??/2007 -
Birdo ??/2007 -
with Dave Bird
Dom Whillans ??/2007 Lead
Adam Potter 05/Nov/06 Lead O/S
A Crook 04/Nov/06 2nd
Hidden ?/Nov/06 Lead
Hidden 08/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Shaw Brown 24/Sep/06 Lead
with cliff brown
Hidden 23/Sep/06 Lead dog
OffshoreAndy 18/Sep/06 2nd
with UKC Jeremy
Stig 07/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
juza 28/Aug/06 Lead
Mr Wild 15/Aug/06 Lead dog

Climb, back off, climb little bit further backed off, then got it third time

Hidden 08/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/06 2nd dnf
jchenoweth 23/Jul/06 Lead dog
with Dave Love and Samian
markju 16/Jul/06 2nd dog

need power to get over the roof...good route to work on!

with karl
Hidden 02/Jul/06 Lead O/S
givemetea ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Marvino 25/Jun/06 Lead

Took 2 attempts at the roof. Fantastic!

Katy Nelson 23/Jun/06 2nd
with Ian Waddington
Caralynh 21/Jun/06 2nd dnf

got too pumped on the bulging crack, then fell off

Hidden 21/Jun/06 Lead rpt
paul_d 21/Jun/06 2nd dog

A bit of a brute. Fell of repeatedly before finishing with encouragment (aka general abuse) from Cara.

Will Hunt 17/Jun/06 Lead dnf

Lets put it this way. 5th lead, poor gear pulling over the first roof bit and finding it to be completely unwelcoming I just about pooed my pants. Inserted cams and escaped off sharpish.

maybe_si 08/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Matt
simonw1 04/Jun/06 2nd dog
with Allan Watson
Hidden 11/May/06 2nd O/S
orb 08/May/06 Lead O/S

Don't know what all the fuss is about! don't step left, that is off route and probably lowers the grade to VS. Classic Staffordshire grit.... if you're gettin pumped, start climbing more!

with Mojo
reg_measures 05/Mar/06 Lead dog

1 rest - very annoyng as it is an awesome route and not too hard - I was just not climbing very well...

with James Wade
ukb & bmc shark 28/Jan/06 2nd
with Mike Garton
dan gibson ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
The old James turnbull ??/2006 -
crossdressingrodney 25/Oct/05 2nd rpt
Si dH 15/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Gerhard
ChrisBrooke 24/Sep/05 2nd
with John Inkpen
maybe_si ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/05 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
AngelaC 27/Aug/05 2nd
Hidden 27/Aug/05 2nd
just one more 04/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with chris nunn
LoopyLou ?/Aug/05 2nd O/S

Helen's first HVS - she took one fall. Deceptively pumpy.

with Helen Lear
crossdressingrodney 11/Jul/05 2nd O/S
with jon
Ramon Marin 10/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Ben Gilbert
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/05 2nd O/S
DavidR 14/May/05 Lead dog
with Matt Hopkinson and John Hat
Bob M 02/May/05 Lead
with Chris Bristow
themax16 27/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with JC
Lawrence Eccles ??/2005 -
with John, A. Crook
Hidden ??/2005 Lead dog
Andy Campbell ??/2005 2nd
with Neil
mark s ??/2005 -
Hidden 01/Dec/04 Lead
Hidden 31/Oct/04 Lead β
Mark Brightwell 31/Oct/04 Lead dnf

Fist jam popped out of greasy, wet crack. No 2 Camelot held :)

riddle ?/Oct/04 Lead

Backed off when i go to the green slimy patch!! must do it when dry!

with Tom Elliot
chris warner ?/Oct/04 Lead dnf
with mark brightwell
Hidden ?/Sep/04 2nd
donkster ?/Aug/04 Lead dog
with trigg
Dave Bond 21/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with sharon
Mark Stevenson 05/Jun/04 2nd rpt
Chesh ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Matt
Hidden 15/May/04 Lead O/S
Jonny M ?/May/04 2nd dog
with Adrian Jones
ed_1973 25/Apr/04 Lead
tradguy 25/Apr/04 2nd O/S
with Ed Lamb
The Reaper 15/Apr/04 Lead rpt
Brown 07/Mar/04 Solo O/S
bigphil ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 2nd dnf
nickdonohue ??/2004 Lead
al99 ?/Nov/03 Lead dog
with Alex Wainwright
Hidden 21/Oct/03 Lead dog
John HW 24/Aug/03 Lead
with Cath
jimshrimp 20/Jul/03 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/03 -
Mark Stevenson 29/Jun/03 Lead rpt
with Tom Moulder
cem 14/Jun/03 Lead dog
with Rod Strachan
Hidden ?/Jun/03 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/03 Lead
ASchwirtz 18/May/03 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 03/May/03 Lead dog
Digger 18/Apr/03 2nd O/S
with James Latham
SteveM 16/Mar/03 Lead
with Rich K
Hidden ?/Mar/03 2nd O/S
gonggashan ?/Mar/03 2nd dog
with Dave
max_chan ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Marvin
soph ??/2003 -
Gus ??/2003 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
petekeron ??/2003 Lead O/S
rob wmc ?/Sep/02 2nd β

Needed help to find the good holds to get over the overhang.

with Andy
Hidden 25/Aug/02 2nd
Hidden 18/Aug/02 Lead
Macca_7 16/Aug/02 Lead O/S

A tricky customer for the grade

five 16/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with JT
Hidden 16/Aug/02 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/Apr/02 -
Gus ??/2002 -
John Brayshaw 10/Jun/01 2nd O/S
with Chris
Alastair Hudson 20/May/01 Lead
with Clare Young
Hidden 14/Jan/01 2nd
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
Hidden ??/2001 -
Hidden 25/Aug/00 Lead dog
Russell Flynn 23/Jul/00 Lead dnf


with Jo
Chris Ellis 30/May/00 2nd
with Louise Pellett
shoulders 14/May/00 Lead
with pete lewis
chrishedgehog 08/Apr/00 Lead O/S
with Joe Thompson, Drew
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead dog

1 rest

with Banjo
adam carless ??/2000 Lead O/S

stepped left to get round the overhang, apparently this is on route.

with someone from CUMC
ArnaudG ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
1202alarm ??/2000 -
Reds 01/Sep/99 2nd dog
with Jon Read
Hidden 07/Aug/99 2nd O/S
tompercy ?/Jul/99 Lead
with Martin Jackson
John Marsland 18/Jun/99 Lead
Steve Pardoe 18/Jun/99 2nd

Rests, and help from rope after getting pumped trying to remove a stuck cam.

Hidden ?/Jun/99 Lead
antroy 15/May/99 Lead
Hidden ?/May/99 TR
Hammy 14/Mar/99 2nd
with Richard Munro
Hidden ??/1999 Lead β
Tarquin ??/1999 -
Martyn ??/1999 -
rlrs ??/1999 Lead dnf
Hidden 19/Sep/98 2nd
stokienomad 12/Aug/98 Lead
nokishatov 01/Aug/98 2nd
ste_d 01/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with mik
Paul-Michael ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Paul Nurse
Strong Steve 25/May/98 Lead O/S
CrashMat Rob 09/May/98 Lead O/S
with Dan, Nicky
Hidden 03/May/98 2nd
buxtoncoffeelover ?/May/98 2nd
lost.arrow 24/Apr/98 Lead dog
martroberts 28/Mar/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/98 Lead
Hidden 21/Mar/98 Lead rpt
richiebongo ??/1998 Lead O/S

Sometime in the late 90's

with Michael Rawlinson
Mark Riley ??/1998 Solo O/S
with Richard Ibberson
Mark Stevenson 17/Aug/97 Lead dnf

Fell off and dislocated knee :-(

Claire Molloy ?/Aug/97 2nd

Second visit to Peaks with Colin Little, Chris and Danny. Really struggled up this and only managed to make crux move with lot of tension in rope above.

with Colin Little
Martin Bennett 09/Jul/97 -
with Cec
skygodley 05/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/97 Lead
paul birch ?/Jun/97 -
Chris Murray ?/Jun/97 2nd

Think I lead this a few years later, but I may be wrong.

with Richard Bower
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/96 Lead O/S
WB ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with Guy
smudge 26/Jun/96 Lead
roncaves 02/Jun/96 Lead
with Mike Entwhistle
goi.ashmore 27/May/96 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
alan moore ??/1996 -

Good not great.

nige ??/1996 Lead
with john buckley
rurp ??/1996 Lead O/S
brady ??/1996 2nd
with John Cameron
robtrooper ??/1996 -
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 20/Jul/95 2nd dog
with Drew
Phil West ?/Jul/95 2nd O/S
with Steve Wild & jimmy Turner
Colin Edwards ?/Jun/95 Lead
with Simon Gough Brown
Martin Bennett 24/Apr/95 -
with Jerry Evans
michael burrows 23/Apr/95 2nd
with richard parry
Duncan Bourne 08/Apr/95 Lead O/S

A real fight of a climb with the polished slab proving trickier than the overhang

Marti999 ??/1995 Lead
SteveB_NWUK_99 ??/1995 Lead O/S

Lead in the 19990s.

jparry75 ?/Aug/94 2nd
roncaves 30/May/94 2nd
Scott McRae 14/May/94 Lead dog

Sandbagged by Tim Bassett!

with Steve Jones
michael burrows 24/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with steve williams
crossleysm ?/Aug/93 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/93 Lead
Hidden ?/May/93 Lead
Nigel Coe ?/May/93 2nd
Mark Kemball 18/Apr/93 Lead
with Bill Kemball
andrew300169 16/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Pom
whispering nic ?/Apr/93 -
with Little Dave
adam carless ?/Feb/93 Lead O/S

I think being short helps getting round the overlap. year is a guess, was at uni.

Hidden ??/1993 Lead
SimonN ??/1993 -
Rob Davies ?/Aug/92 2nd
conradallen 05/Jul/92 2nd
Roget 10/Jun/92 Solo rpt
channinga ??/1992 -
Sean Kelly ??/1992 Lead

A beautiful technical climb.

with Pete Carmichael
nai ??/1992 Lead
adi bryant 06/Oct/91 2nd
with Gavin
Hidden 18/Sep/91 2nd
The Reaper 05/Sep/91 Lead rpt
Hammy 04/Aug/91 2nd
with Fai Kwong, Mandy Kwong
adi bryant 14/Jul/91 Lead O/S
SimonN 05/Jun/91 Lead
Gordon Stainforth 23/May/91 Lead O/S
with John Stainforth
Andy Fielding ??/1991 Lead
with Mark Lardner
andybirtwistle 25/Jul/90 -
OMSKB 24/Jun/90 Lead
dodders 11/May/90 2nd
with Alison Hargreaves, Dick Hargreaves
Chris Ebbutt ??/1990 Lead
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead dog
Hidden 09/Jul/89 2nd
Roget 26/Jun/89 Lead O/S
with jim
conradallen 11/Jun/89 Lead dnf
Iain Thow 04/May/89 2nd
with John (Burton)
DubyaJamesDubya ?/May/89 Lead O/S

One of the first HVS's I led

with Nick Oldfield
Hidden 11/Mar/89 Lead
tlr ?/Oct/88 TR
with Fin and Nick
Hidden 08/Jun/88 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Jul/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/87 Lead O/S
Richard Weller 21/Sep/85 Lead
with Tim Livesey
Neil R 17/Aug/85 Lead O/S
with Gary
neilh 13/Jul/85 Lead O/S
with simon webster
Hidden 22/Jun/85 2nd
ukb & bmc shark 02/Jun/85 2nd O/S
with Phill Dickens
clark alston ?/Jun/85 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1984 -
Mark Kemball 30/Oct/83 2nd
with Dave McCann
Hidden 10/Jul/82 Lead
Andy Stephenson 12/Jun/82 Lead rpt

Seconded 23/8/81

Hidden 26/Apr/82 2nd
charlesmfrench 18/Apr/82 Lead O/S
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1982 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1982 2nd
with FMC
Hammy 24/Jul/81 Lead
with Rob Lawson
Nigel Coe 18/Jul/81 Lead
with Steve Portnoi
The Reaper 27/Jul/80 2nd rpt
Hidden 20/Apr/80 Lead
babymoac 01/Mar/80 Lead
with MTW
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
The Reaper 24/Jul/79 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1979 -
Mike Owen 11/Nov/78 Lead O/S
with Gavin Peat
Hidden 05/Nov/78 Lead O/S
Chris Terrey ??/1978 Lead
with Ken Taylor
RichardMc 01/May/77 2nd
with Dave Langmead
RichardMc 05/Sep/76 Lead O/S
with Tony Williams
Dave Musgrove 22/May/76 Lead
rogerskews ??/1976 Lead
with Martin Coward
uphillnow ??/1976 Lead

climbed in 70's, probably with Al Bennett also December 1980 with school pupil, Howard Morley

jon 11/Sep/75 Lead
with Elaine
Nigel Bond 30/Jun/74 2nd
with Pete Dainty, Pete Bott
clanger ??/1972 -
Rog Wilko ?/Oct/71 2nd
with ??
mikej 01/Nov/70 2nd
with Steve Evans
mikej 03/May/70 Lead
with E
mikej 23/Jun/68 Lead
with Graham Platford
mikej 26/Feb/67 Lead
with Geoff Williams
oldmanofmow ??/1961 2nd

Colin M led it thankfully he found it has hard as I did. It took him 30 mins to work out how to do the overhang

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