UKC

46m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The deep, twisting chimney is worthwhile and interesting. It is at the top end of the grade for those not used to 3D climbing.
1) 5, 12m. Enter the fissure steeply (polished) then continue up the groove and narrowing slab above to a choice of stances.
2) 4+, 28m. Continue until is possible to traverse out left onto the rib, finish up this. Alternatively, and a bit less exciting, continue up the slab as for Prats. © Rockfax

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User Date Notes
Stanley 27 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Carried on straight up the groove and slabs above the crack in a single pitch on a 70m rope. Great route although it’s a shame the crack entertainment doesn’t run to the top!
βeta?
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βeta: Carried on straight up the groove and slabs above the crack in a single pitch on a 70m rope. Great route although it’s a shame the crack entertainment doesn’t run to the top!
hip99 21 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch goes up much higher to the second cave (13 bolts), not the first cave as shown on topo.
βeta?
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βeta: First pitch goes up much higher to the second cave (13 bolts), not the first cave as shown on topo.
auld al 29 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: new bolts now
βeta?
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βeta: new bolts now
auld al 29 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: all now newly bolted and plenty of them, though on the second pitch there didn't appear to be any on the leftwards rib finish
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: all now newly bolted and plenty of them, though on the second pitch there didn't appear to be any on the leftwards rib finish
TRNovice 9 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: First bolt is thin, bent and rusted, maybe OK, but maybe not. Second is better, but not brilliant. Perhaps consider some trad gear to back them up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First bolt is thin, bent and rusted, maybe OK, but maybe not. Second is better, but not brilliant. Perhaps consider some trad gear to back them up.

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Votes cast 32
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Waschbär 9

Grade: 5a ***
(Morro Falqui)

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