UKC Logbook - 'Cleoplaca'

48m.

Rockfax Description
One of the best technical challenges in the area up a fine shield of rock. The climbing is sustained and hard on the fingers with no respite. Rope-drag can be a problem at the top, so don't attempt it in one long pitch unless you have double ropes. If you have a single rope, it is best to take a hanging stance on the flake after a tricky initial section. © Rockfax

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User	Date		Notes
Pedro50	20 Apr	Show βeta βeta: I held Stuart's ropes on it sometime in the 80's, it was given E5 in our guide. Towards the top his rope ran out so I let it through the Stitch plate, didn't want to alarm him or spoil the onsight. A mountaineering judgement which proved OK.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I held Stuart's ropes on it sometime in the 80's, it was given E5 in our guide. Towards the top his rope ran out so I let it through the Stitch plate, didn't want to alarm him or spoil the onsight. A mountaineering judgement which proved OK.
Neil Foster	6 Jan, 2007	Show βeta βeta: Taking a hanging stance as suggested would make little difference to the rope drag higher on this pitch. It really does need to be done on double ropes, and is best as one runout. But this is probably academic as I've never seen another team on it in 15 years of driving through the Mascarat Gorge. Shame really, as it is superb!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Taking a hanging stance as suggested would make little difference to the rope drag higher on this pitch. It really does need to be done on double ropes, and is best as one runout. But this is probably academic as I've never seen another team on it in 15 years of driving through the Mascarat Gorge. Shame really, as it is superb!