UKC

281m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
E2. A long and exposed climb taking the right-hand Arete of the steep face overlooking the gorge. Start as for Sylphara.
1) 3, 45m. Traverse right on ledges to a long cave.
2) 6a, 30m. Climb slabs right of the cave to 2 bolts. The crack on the right leads to shallow grooves and a cave. Bolt belay.
3) 6a, 50m. Slabs on the left lead to a crack (bolt, ignore pegs going left). Climb the chimney on the right, past overhangs, to a groove. Move left below a roof then up a groove to a ledge.
4) 5, 36m. Climb the right-slanting groove, then go just right of the Arete to a ledge.
5) 4, 40m. Continue just right of the Arete until you can step onto it. Climb the slab to a good ledge.
4a) 6a+, 36m. Alternative pitch. Climb the groove above and pass a small cave on your left. Go direct to a cave.
5a) 5, 45m. Climb into another cave on the left (nest), then up a groove to follow slabs and a chimney which lead to the Arete. Follow this to a good ledge.
6) 4, 25m. Follow the Arete to a belay (peg).
7) 4+, 30m. Follow the Arete to a good ledge.
8) 4, 25m. Climb the Arete to ledges and the walk off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A long and exposed climb taking the right arête of the steep face overlooking the gorge. Start as for Sylphara.
1) 3, 45m. Traverse right on ledges to a long cave.
2) 6a, 30m. Climb slabs right of the cave to 2 bolts. The crack on the right leads to shallow grooves and a cave. Bolt belay.
3) 6a, 50m. Slabs on the left lead to a crack (bolt, ignore pegs going left). Climb the chimney on the right, past overhangs, to a groove. Move left below a roof then up a groove to a ledge.
4) 5, 36m. Climb the right-slanting groove then just right of the arête to a ledge.
5) 4, 40m. Continue just right of the arête until you can step on to it. Climb the slab to a good ledge.
4a) 6a+, 36m. Alternative pitch. Climb the groove above and pass a small cave on your left. Go direct to a cave.
5a) 5, 45m. Climb into another cave on the left (nest) then up a groove to follow slabs and a chimney which lead to the arête. Follow this to a good ledge.
6) 4. 25m. Follow the arête to a belay (peg).
7) 4+, 30m. Follow the arête to a good ledge.
8) 4, 25m. Climb the arête to ledges and the walk off.

FA. Unknown. P4 and P5 - Rowland Edwards, Mark Edwards 1985.

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Triple Direct

Grade: 6a ***
(Mascarat)

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