UKC

15m. Brilliant route right of Heavens Above, all on natural placements. Climb the obvious cracks until a strenuous hard last few moves with bad feet. The grade is more like Scottish VIII/VII.

***Loose and missing blocks, grade may have increased and belayers beware - see climb feedback***

Ticklists

UK 3* Dry Tool Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
JSudd 14 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Apparently now M8 ish as some blocks are missing. A long reach was handy
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Apparently now M8 ish as some blocks are missing. A long reach was handy
Jeff Ingman 27 Feb, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The big block to the left of the 4th bolt has moved a bit. The crack on it's RHS has widened and the hooks/torques have changed. The small block below is still loose and rattly, and the triangular block up to the left at the base of the LH crack is loose and moves easily. This middle section is unstable - be careful, big loose blocks here.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The big block to the left of the 4th bolt has moved a bit. The crack on it's RHS has widened and the hooks/torques have changed. The small block below is still loose and rattly, and the triangular block up to the left at the base of the LH crack is loose and moves easily. This middle section is unstable - be careful, big loose blocks here.
Ramon Marin 31 Jan, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: now with the missing block it feels more like M8+ really. The route was always going to be loose and some more blocks will come off before it settles, but as long as the belayer is aware it still should be safe as the bolts are quite far right on the good rock
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: now with the missing block it feels more like M8+ really. The route was always going to be loose and some more blocks will come off before it settles, but as long as the belayer is aware it still should be safe as the bolts are quite far right on the good rock
Jeff Ingman 11 Jan, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A substantial block came off between the 4th and 5th bolts, beneath the LH leaning crack on the 4 January. I was standing on it at the time. Makes the step up into the crack a bit more awkward.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A substantial block came off between the 4th and 5th bolts, beneath the LH leaning crack on the 4 January. I was standing on it at the time. Makes the step up into the crack a bit more awkward.

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Voting
High D7+
Mid D7+
Low D7+
High D7
Mid D7
Low D7
High D6+
Mid D6+
Low D6+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
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