UKC

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USER ATTENTION

7pm Friday 6th October - 4:30pm Sunday 8th October
MassonFest 2023 will be taking place.

Although there are arrangements in place to mitigate parking issues (stipulation that event attendees park in Matlock and walk up, or use the shuttlebus service) it is highly advisable that other climbers avoid the crag on these dates to reduce the likelihood of access issues relating to crag parking and general user volume.

 

As ever, Please read and follow the parking advice below.

Significant rockfall and remaining instability have been reported on the RHS of Red Wall, particularly around the route Fun in the Sun. Loose rock is very likely to remain on this part of the crag so caution is advised to anyone using this area.

Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 08/09/2023  
Updated by UKC: 8th September

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12m. Start on the first slot of Substantial Losses to reach round the block for a hook at the bottom of the dark pocket. Use a mix of natural, drilled and 'the weird bolted on rocks' for tor feet as you head up then to the curtain-rail just below the bolts. While there are slots drilled on the rail for the big moves, it is positive throughout, albeit a little hollow in places. Traverse right-wards across the curtain on ledges and drilled slots for feet. The right hand side of the curtain is to the lower off for Sick Boy using a couple of hooks, above the lip and and stein and a side pull/layaway below it.

Neil Blake 25/Feb/2022.

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UK 3* Dry Tool Routes

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Masson Lees Quarry

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
Peak Limestone Cover
Peak Limestone (2020)
Rockfax
By Alan James, Chris Craggs
Guidebook correction for this climb

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Voting
High D7+
Mid D7+
Low D7+
High D7
Mid D7
Low D7
High D6+
Mid D6+
Low D6+
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 2
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Chelly Express

Grade: D7 ***
(Masson Lees Quarry)

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