Rockfax Description
A good route which follows a slanting groove in the big wall. The start of the second pitch has a technical move that is harder than the rest of the route. Start below a crack which runs from right to left through the initial bulges.
1) 5a, 20m. Climb the butch crack and flake to the break - more strenuous than it looks. Traverse left to belay on a ledge below the slanting groove.
2) 5c, 30m. Make a thin move up and right into the groove using a hidden crimp (poor wire) and establish yourself in the groove. Move up then left around a bulge at the top. Continue up the wall and slabby groove above to the left-hand end of the large roof. Finish straight up easy cracks. © Rockfax
FA. J.Perrin, J.Curran 15/Apr/1980.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ariegeois | 23 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Start of the route is good - meaty little crack on jugs to get you away from the tides. First section of the second pitch is quite technical and bold, but difficulty and quality fade away as the pitch goes on. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Start of the route is good - meaty little crack on jugs to get you away from the tides. First section of the second pitch is quite technical and bold, but difficulty and quality fade away as the pitch goes on. |
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Guidebooks for Mewsford Point
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Heaven's Door
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Stackpole Head)