Just left of the descent gully lies this interesting and varied route. Another good one for those with limited multi-pitch experience or those who enjoy comfortable belay ledges.
1) 28m. Climb the slab left of the rib on large holds to reach a small ledge. Climb up through a crack to get stood on the towering block on the left, the Pulpit and belay.
2) 28m. Move left onto the slab with hands in a break. Make a tricky step up to gain the slab above and traverse up and left to a steep groove. A puzzling move gains the slot/slab which is followed to a good belay on a flatter area of rock.
3) 12m. Scramble rightwards. You can descend by abseiling from a massive spike into the gully, or by descending a groove by the spike and then scrambling right along a blocky ledge into the gully. If you wish to keep climbing then continue along the ledge to beneath the gaping chimney and belay as for Ivy Chimney.
4) 15m. A steep few moves guard the entrance to the chimney. Walk back and exit right up a steep section and through a hole. Belay on a perched block.
5) 10m. Climb up the exposed rib on the right to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A 5 pitch, simple climb with a nice chimney on the 4th pitch.
Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Classic Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Through Routes!, Milestone Butress, Milestone Butress, Big Ogwen Day Out, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist
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