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87m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Just left of the descent gully lies this interesting and varied route. Another good one for those with limited multi-pitch experience or those who enjoy comfortable belay ledges.
1) 28m. Climb the slab left of the rib on large holds to reach a small ledge. Climb up through a crack to get stood on the towering block on the left, the Pulpit and belay.
2) 28m. Move left onto the slab with hands in a break. Make a tricky step up to gain the slab above and traverse up and left to a steep groove. A puzzling move gains the slot/slab which is followed to a good belay on a flatter area of rock.
3) 12m. Scramble rightwards. You can descend by abseiling from a massive spike into the gully, or by descending a groove by the spike and then scrambling right along a blocky ledge into the gully. If you wish to keep climbing then continue along the ledge to beneath the gaping chimney and belay as for Ivy Chimney.
4) 15m. A steep few moves guard the entrance to the chimney. Walk back and exit right up a steep section and through a hole. Belay on a perched block.
5) 10m. Climb up the exposed rib on the right to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A 5 pitch, simple climb with a nice chimney on the 4th pitch.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Classic Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Through Routes!, Milestone Butress, Milestone Butress, Big Ogwen Day Out, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
karelvangoor1 20 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Loose big flake near top of chimney
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose big flake near top of chimney
Rosalind Chaston 14 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Good for novices - many points to belay at.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good for novices - many points to belay at.
Francis Hardy 27 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose flake at the top of the chimney, could be serious if dislodged and second is belaying from the base of the chimney.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose flake at the top of the chimney, could be serious if dislodged and second is belaying from the base of the chimney.
skinne 22 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Plenty of abseil tat above the top pitch, some of it didn't look too bad...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Plenty of abseil tat above the top pitch, some of it didn't look too bad...

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Route of Interest

Hope

Grade: VD ***
(Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal))