Rockfax Description
Worthwhile, though the second pitch is a bit of a let-down.
1) 4c. Climb the tough cracks, the left-hand one is tricky, the right-hand crack only gives painful finger-jamming at E1 5c.
2) 4b. Finish up the awkward groove to a loose exit. © Rockfax
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , 50 cracks to Squamish , To Goliath's Groove and beyond , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Michelle's crack ticklist , Millstone Edge , The Gritlist , Proper Cracks UK , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Big trad grit list , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Mark's grit selection 2022 , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Peaky , Loz’ Peaks Wishlist , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , UKC Guide to Dogging
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Stanley | 18 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Followed Joey up this in boiling heat, felt desperate ?. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Followed Joey up this in boiling heat, felt desperate ?. |
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| cheque | 2 May, 2022 |
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βeta: The second pitch is actually, to use Rockfax parlance, “well worth doing” and is the only one of the Embankment second pitches that makes sense being both directly above the first pitch and the same grade as it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The second pitch is actually, to use Rockfax parlance, “well worth doing” and is the only one of the Embankment second pitches that makes sense being both directly above the first pitch and the same grade as it. |
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| Harry_Sutcliffe | 27 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: More of a fight than expected. The midday sun didn\'t help. Although borderline stalking the wideboyz has paid off. Employing some unessasary off widthing techniques, to place far too much gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: More of a fight than expected. The midday sun didn't help. Although borderline stalking the wideboyz has paid off. Employing some unessasary off widthing techniques, to place far too much gear. |
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| Redryan147 | 28 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Onsite pitch 1, second pitch looked a bit easy so did the E1 5b finish of embankment 3 instead but dogged it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Onsite pitch 1, second pitch looked a bit easy so did the E1 5b finish of embankment 3 instead but dogged it. |
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| nick w | 5 Jul, 2007 |
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βeta: perfect jamming fist ,hands and fingers what more could you want | βeta? | |
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βeta: perfect jamming fist ,hands and fingers what more could you want |
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| Wilbur | 8 May, 2007 |
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βeta: Cider nut, i agree. Not a great warm up if you are no totally au fait with finger-locking and torqueing your feet (as i am not). Did exactly the same as you before deciding to warm up on somethin else. Obviously it started raining before i got to lead anything...! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Cider nut, i agree. Not a great warm up if you are no totally au fait with finger-locking and torqueing your feet (as i am not). Did exactly the same as you before deciding to warm up on somethin else. Obviously it started raining before i got to lead anything...! |
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| Fidget | 2 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Attempting this as a warm up route (by someone leading around VS) is a great way to pump out for the whole day. I climbed to the niche and downclimbed three times, running out of puff on each one (I was laybacking it though, maybe that's a mistake). Will have to come back another time! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Attempting this as a warm up route (by someone leading around VS) is a great way to pump out for the whole day. I climbed to the niche and downclimbed three times, running out of puff on each one (I was laybacking it though, maybe that's a mistake). Will have to come back another time! |
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| Glen | 3 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: Lurrrvly (apart from the top pitch) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lurrrvly (apart from the top pitch) |
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| Jon Greengrass | 28 May, 2003 |
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βeta: A big boot on your left foot may be found useful, but may also get stuck and leave you free hanging off a finger lock in the right hand crack when you try to heave it out. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A big boot on your left foot may be found useful, but may also get stuck and leave you free hanging off a finger lock in the right hand crack when you try to heave it out. |
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| bone | 14 Sep, 2002 |
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βeta: loadsa fun! at tyhe top of my grade but felt safe with plenty gear placements and times to rest. thought it was climbing the L hand crack only - what grade is that? | βeta? | |
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βeta: loadsa fun! at tyhe top of my grade but felt safe with plenty gear placements and times to rest. thought it was climbing the L hand crack only - what grade is that? |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Millstone Edge
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Byne's Crack
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Burbage South Edge)