UKC

28m.

Rockfax Description
An excellent and elegant pitch up the long arete, managing to avoid all the crucial sections on the regular route. The loss of a flake/hold has made the lower section harder and bolder; it is still a bit hollow but the positions on the upper arete are superb. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Millstone * HVS In a day, Millstone Edge

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User Date Notes
Chris Craggs 17 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Mildly bold, low in the grade and excllent.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Mildly bold, low in the grade and excllent.
robw007 15 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This route has not changed over the past few years. It always required a few steady moves up to the flake and runners. It is HVS and superb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route has not changed over the past few years. It always required a few steady moves up to the flake and runners. It is HVS and superb.
Si dH 15 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Tried this on Monday and realised that the flake you need to bot hput in runners and layback up at about 4m up is very loose and about to fall off. Route is shortly going to need a significant re-grade when it comes off - harder climbing unless it leaves a jug behind, and no until way off the ground.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tried this on Monday and realised that the flake you need to bot hput in runners and layback up at about 4m up is very loose and about to fall off. Route is shortly going to need a significant re-grade when it comes off - harder climbing unless it leaves a jug behind, and no until way off the ground.
Sazzle 21 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Anyone care to regrade this? Tried it last night, not knowing the hold had gone, and couldn't figure out why I couldn't get off the ledge and why it was described as 'well protected'!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Anyone care to regrade this? Tried it last night, not knowing the hold had gone, and couldn't figure out why I couldn't get off the ledge and why it was described as 'well protected'!
Nick Smith - Climbers 25 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: There are hard, runout moves direct up the arete above the good ledge at half-height - much harder than HVS 5a! Sensibly avoid these by skipping right on to the well chalked jugs of Lyon's Corner House, and then left again back to the jugs on the arete.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are hard, runout moves direct up the arete above the good ledge at half-height - much harder than HVS 5a! Sensibly avoid these by skipping right on to the well chalked jugs of Lyon's Corner House, and then left again back to the jugs on the arete.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 70
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 65
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Lyons Corner House

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Millstone Edge)
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