UKC

24m.

Rockfax Description
A fierce finger-crack leads to a band of overhangs. Pull into the steep leaning groove and finish up this. London Pride, E5 6b, 5c, climbed to the roof then took a hanging belay on the arete before finishing up the slanting groove of Perplexity. © Rockfax

FA. (London Pride) Mick Fowler 1976. FA (as described) Mike Lea 2001. The top wall was climbed as Which Way Up Robitho (FA. Paul Evans 1988)..

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Consumed , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , crimperE6 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
tintinandpip 16 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lower crack is good upper bouldery wall excellent, really good route. ( 6b not 6c)
Show beta
βeta: Lower crack is good upper bouldery wall excellent, really good route. ( 6b not 6c)
Michael Porter 20 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: English 6b, not 6c
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: English 6b, not 6c
ashtond6 29 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Needs new pegs or one glue in in the top groove :) who chopped the tree?!? It was one of the best runners!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Needs new pegs or one glue in in the top groove :) who chopped the tree?!? It was one of the best runners!
UKB Shark 15 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I have read some comments elsewhere on the net casting doubt on Paul's ascent of Which Way up Mr Rothko. (Named after Mark Rothkos paintings being mistakenly hung upside down at an exhibition)My recollection of his ascent (I held his ropes) is better than his when I chatted to him about it a couple of weeks ago. Paul abbed in to where London Pride goes right and led his direct variant from there (which I thought was an odd thing to do at the time). I didnt follow. Paul is/was an awesome boulderer and it sounds like he originally undergraded it at 6B.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I have read some comments elsewhere on the net casting doubt on Paul's ascent of Which Way up Mr Rothko. (Named after Mark Rothkos paintings being mistakenly hung upside down at an exhibition)My recollection of his ascent (I held his ropes) is better than his when I chatted to him about it a couple of weeks ago. Paul abbed in to where London Pride goes right and led his direct variant from there (which I thought was an odd thing to do at the time). I didnt follow. Paul is/was an awesome boulderer and it sounds like he originally undergraded it at 6B.
Graham Hoey 12 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Now 6b since the appearance of a good left handhold below and left of the first peg in the upper groove. This resulted from a flake (and climber!) becoming detached from the rock. The pegs are still OK for the short falls likely, but are showing signs of age. An excellent route - get it done soon - the pegs may be v hard to replace.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Now 6b since the appearance of a good left handhold below and left of the first peg in the upper groove. This resulted from a flake (and climber!) becoming detached from the rock. The pegs are still OK for the short falls likely, but are showing signs of age. An excellent route - get it done soon - the pegs may be v hard to replace.

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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 14
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ma Dooley

Grade: E6 5b ***
(Derek Dooley Bridge)

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