UKC

24m.

Rockfax Description
The steep arete is technical as far as a band of crusty rock. Step right and climb the difficult slanting groove, and the headwall. Holds were chipped off after the first ascent but it is still climbable at the same grade. Some ancient bolts provide much-needed protection. © Rockfax

FA. Johnny Dawes 09/Jul/1985.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Peak Rock/16/Eighties Gritstone :The Shape of Things to Come, Consumed, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, crimperE6, Dawes’ finest grit routes

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User Date Notes
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 2 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Possibly one of the finest routes at Millstone. Oustanding climbing and situation - it will bring a smile to your face! IMO the crux is in the upper groove.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Possibly one of the finest routes at Millstone. Oustanding climbing and situation - it will bring a smile to your face! IMO the crux is in the upper groove.
Graham Hoey 12 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I would think that more holds were improved than destroyed, although some of the chipped holds pre-dated Johnny's ascent by years. A 'two foot' sling placed on the old bolt head on the left-hand side of the arete up and left of the crucial Rock 7 can be clipped en-route and offers some (body weight?) psychological back-up protection. The bolts on the upper wall seem fine for the force of a likely fall, being thick in diameter and appear not to be badly corroded. The top one needs a wire over it. Has been repeated without pre-placing the Rock 7, although my ascent wasn't on-sight.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I would think that more holds were improved than destroyed, although some of the chipped holds pre-dated Johnny's ascent by years. A 'two foot' sling placed on the old bolt head on the left-hand side of the arete up and left of the crucial Rock 7 can be clipped en-route and offers some (body weight?) psychological back-up protection. The bolts on the upper wall seem fine for the force of a likely fall, being thick in diameter and appear not to be badly corroded. The top one needs a wire over it. Has been repeated without pre-placing the Rock 7, although my ascent wasn't on-sight.

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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 6
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Nosferatu

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Burbage South Edge)
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