Restricted Access
Please speak to the NTS warden who lives on the island before climbing, for the latest information on climbing areas with nesting birds. There are a large number of nesting birds on the Great Arch (Arch Deacon is currently covered in birds) and North Pillar and climbers have been asked to refrain from climbing here (June 2024).
Please refarin from the routes on "Guarsay Mor" and "Lower cobweb wall " from May to July due to large numbers of birds on these routes, please for advice talk to warden in residence .
Rockfax Description
100m. One of the Top 10 routes to do before you die. A direct line between The Silkie and Sirens gives superb and surprising climbing up apparently desperate ground. Start as for The Silkie.
1. 50m 5c Climb the groove of The Silkie until it fades then step right and climb up to gain a recess under an isolated roof. Move 2m right along a traverse line to below a small flake in the lip of the bulge above. Pull over and reach quartz underclings under further bulges above. Climb directly over this bulge to gain more underclings under another bulge. Make an undercling move right then up the middle of the wall above to gain a jug-rail under the extreme left end of a large diagonal roof. Where the roof recedes, pull over onto the slab above. Climb up into a slight shallow corner then up and left to a belay in a big horizontal break, 3m below roofs.
2. 50m 5b Climb direct through the roofs above via the left end of the block roof of Sirens (which climbs through via the flake to the right) then direct to the top.
FA K.Howett, H.Harris, 14 May 1999 © Rockfax
Ticklists
15 Climbs to do before you die , Ultimate Scottish Rock , The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Andy Moles | 5 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The 'do before you die' double page spread in the guidebook (photo is actually of The Silkie) suggests this is on another level from its neighbours, when really it's quite similar. They're all excellent. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The 'do before you die' double page spread in the guidebook (photo is actually of The Silkie) suggests this is on another level from its neighbours, when really it's quite similar. They're all excellent. |
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Logged Ascents
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The Silkie
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Mingulay)