Please speak to the NTS warden who lives on the island before climbing, for the latest information on climbing areas with nesting birds. There are a large number of nesting birds on the Great Arch (Arch Deacon is currently covered in birds) and North Pillar and climbers have been asked to refrain from climbing here (June 2024).
Please refarin from the routes on "Guarsay Mor" and "Lower cobweb wall " from May to July due to large numbers of birds on these routes, please for advice talk to warden in residence .
Rockfax Description
100m. 1. 30m 5b Climb the slabby wall to the right of the bay diagonally up leftwards towards a short fat flake and junction with The Silk Route. Follow The Silk Route into the shallow groove and spike on the right. Exit the horizontal break above rightwards for a metre until possible to pull up and right to a nut belay in a small niche, above the apex of the triangular roof.
2. 40m 5b Climb direct out of the niche to small ledges. Climb boldly via small flakes to the left end of an overlap. Pull over and gain a jug in a further, larger overlap above. Pull over this to under a distinctive jutting prow of rock and climb round its right side to a small ledge on its top. Surmount the roofs above on huge flakes in a wild position to gain the vertical wall above (the flakes to the left are on The Silk Route and the quartz groove of The Silkie is 8m to the right). Climb the wall to belay on a yellow ledge.
3. 30m 5a The steep juggy wall to the top.
FA M.Turner, G.Latter, L.Thomas, 3 Jun 1998 © Rockfax
Ultimate Scottish Rock , Great Scottish E2s , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Trad on every UK island , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 3 and 4 star E2 5b routes in Scotland , Greatest E2s in Europe (or thereabouts) , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Must climb at crags , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Pabbay and Mingulay , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , A.P's summer
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Berneray)