Please speak to the NTS warden who lives on the island before climbing, for the latest information on climbing areas with nesting birds. There are a large number of nesting birds on the Great Arch (Arch Deacon is currently covered in birds) and North Pillar and climbers have been asked to refrain from climbing here (June 2024).
Please refarin from the routes on "Guarsay Mor" and "Lower cobweb wall " from May to July due to large numbers of birds on these routes, please for advice talk to warden in residence .
Rockfax Description
120m. An outstanding voyage with stunning exposure and commitment. Intricate, sustained climbing through ground normally associated with much harder grades. 10m from the left end of the ledges is a short square-cut corner.
1. 25m 5b Ascend this corner to a small ledge at the base of an open groove. Climb the groove to pull out left to belay on a small ledge.
2. 30m 5b Move out left then follow a line of flakes trending left until a vertical flake-crack leads to a horizontal fault. Hand traverse left along the fault then move up to a very exposed belay on a small nose of rock at the base of a slight corner (this whole area is undercut by a sea cave).
3. 30m 5b Climb the corner to a small ledge then traverse a couple of metres left to a short parallel groove. Ascend this then step left and slightly down to a very narrow ledge. Follow this leftwards until the overlap can be bypassed giving access to a traverse line back right above the overlap. Belay at blunt rock spikes adjacent to a break in the overhangs.
4. 35m 5c Traverse right through the lower line of overhangs, then climb up a steep groove to finish via a short hanging corner.
FA G.E.Little, K.Howett, 31 May 1993 © Rockfax
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Pabbay)