IV, 1000m, 1 day. A great route - wild, remote and serious enough to be respected by even the strongest of teams. The climbing is never desperate (although it borders on it for a couple of moves), but the route has objective dangers and retreat is difficult. Save until you are fit, experienced and acclimatised and you will have an amazing time.
1) 3c. Follow a snowy ridge to the foot of the first rock step and go directly up this (3c) to reach the foot of two red towers.
2) 5b. Climb a tough, 40m long chimney (5b) to reach a ledge just right of the towers. Climb a 5m high crack (4c) just to the right of the first tower and then come back left by passing through a hole under a boulder.
3) 4b. Climb the steep rocky ridge (4b). Follow it to a exposed narrow snow ridge leading to the base of a second rock step.
4) Climb diagonally up and left to avoid the second step and to reach the wide couloir which splits the first and second half of the Innominata Ridge. Cross the couloir up and leftwards as quickly as possible (it is prone to rockfall) to where it steepens and reaches a snow gully leading up and left. Ideally the whole of the traverse across the couloir should be on snow, but it will involve crossing a couple of rock ribs in anything other than ideal conditions.
4a) If conditions are really poor in the couloir, it is possible to traverse left all the way across it from the point at which you join it. Once on the far side, climb up broken rock (maximum 5b) to reach the snow gully leading up and left. This option is slower than crossing the couloir the normal way but does mean that you are exposed to danger for slightly less time.
5) Follow the snow gully leftwards to reach the ridge crest. Continue up the ridge via snow and mixed ground, which is never hard but sometimes loose, to reach a stunning snow ridge. Go up this to reach the Brouillard Ridge. © Rockfax
Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50 , Alpine Dreamz , Big Alpine Routes , Alpine Progression , A mix of routes to the summits of great Peaks in the Alps via standard'ish routes
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