IV, 1400m, 1 day. An amazing and wild route. Don't be fooled by the grade of this one; it is a long and serious journey through some fantastic scenery. The route can be climbed by countless variations so good route finding is vital if you are to find optimal conditions. The route we've described is reliant on good cramponing snow. If this line isn't looking good, it is possible to follow the ridge crest more closely although the rock is of poor quality.
1) Climb up the broken glacier below the route and avoid the first rocky section by going around it to the right.
2) Head up the snowy gully 100m to the right of the ridge crest to reach the middle snow field.
3) Climb the snow field to access a wider gully and follow this to the ridge crest.
4) Head up the ridge crest over some occasionally chossy rock.
5) Step right and climb up a final calf-busting snow gully to join the Goûter Route (p.341) and follow this to the summit of Mont Blanc. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The climbing is wonderful, not difficult but sustained, exposed and very, very strenuous.
The approach is climbing in itself. The only way to get to the Quintino Sella hut is by the Miage Glacier and the Mont Blanc glacier. You can also get there by the Gonella Hut but is was closed when we where there (early in July 2017) and it is dangerous in summer...
The Mont Blanc glacier was icy and it is much steeper that we expected.
Getting to the ridge from the glacier was easy and the climbing to the hut
is funny and very beautiful, but loooooong!...
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