246m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 245m. Cross the bergschrund - this can be tricky in late summer when the glacier is dry so make sure you are competent in dealing with crevasses/bergschrunds before heading up. Climb up to a comfortable ledge system beneath some blocky ground. Most people leave boots, crampons and ice axes here and collect them on the way down.
1) 3a, 30m. Scramble up above the belay for 10m and follow the ramp-line out right to a belay beneath a corner.
2) 4b, 15m. Climb the corner to a ledge.
3) 3a, 20m. Follow slabs and then a ramp-line out rightwards.
4) 4c, 35m. Drift left then back right via some excellent slabby crack climbing.
5) 5a, 30m. Head up the cracked slab and then go just left of the overhang via a steep groove which is well protected and furnished with plenty of big holds. Carry on for 5m up a slab above the groove to a belay with an excellent view of the pitch you've just done.
6) 4c, 30m. Follow the ramp out rightwards then go straight up to end up below steep, parallel cracks. Climb up to these then step out right onto a slab and follow this to a belay.
From here the route becomes much more vague and the slabs can be climbed almost anywhere. As long as you stay just to the right of the ridge crest you shouldn't go far wrong so don't worry if you don't stick exactly to the line.
7) 4b, 25m. Climb the slabs, drifting left to a belay on a white section of rock.
8) 4a, 20m. Continue leftwards before going straight up, just to the right of the ridge crest.
9) 3c, 40m. Enjoyable, easy slab climbing on some stunning golden granite leads to the summit. The scenery is mind-blowing so soak it in!
Descent - Either abseil down the route or (if it is busy) use some of the numerous abseil anchors on the south face, taking care to end up back at your kit! Approximate locations of the abseils on the south face are shown but there are many more than those labelled. 50m double ropes are required for the descent. © Rockfax

not listed

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Mark's Alpine Ideas 2017, Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+).

Christine 28/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Pyramide du Tacul. Late in season so not to easy to cross the bercherund that was now 5 meters from the rock. Climbed down into it and made our way across some ice and rock and had to pas some more sketchy loose rock to get to solide rock on the rout. From there a very nice climbe. Plenty of absailpoints to get down

with Luke gorman
Adamski1986 17/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
watson.b 17/Aug/17 AltLd
with nicky
Tony Myers 17/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Adam Gregg
08nbrierley 17/Aug/17 AltLd
Hidden 17/Aug/17 AltLd
betathief 07/Aug/17 AltLd
CameronH 07/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
wchan 03/Aug/17 -
George.D 03/Aug/17 2nd
FelixJT 17/Jul/17 -
with alex brighton
steve_gibbs 06/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Lewie, Deema
cmars89 22/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Ryan Weber
walts4 11/Jun/17 -
Hidden 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
jezb1 23/Aug/16 AltLd

In boots which made it fun :)

lukegorman 21/Aug/16 2nd O/S

yes i did forget my rock shoes. still fun tho

JoeCoxson 21/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Started off on the wrong ledge as I didn't anticipate how high up on the disgusting looking seracs we had to cross onto the face- a speedy and concerning traverse over a worrying snow bridge put us in the right place. Lead all the pitches as Luke forgot his rock shoes. Nice granite climbing and an awesome summit, but a pretty grim slog back to the Cosmiques hut.

davidswannn 08/Aug/16 -

Guided by Neil McKay IFMGA BMG

Hidden ?/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
jogle03 25/Jul/16 AltLd
ndraper1 06/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

big-boot-simil-climb in 1hr 45 which felt good! Only belayed the leader when we stopped to swap gear. Rock gets better the higher you get and some great cracks and corners around mid height. Classic granite moves :) N.B. I think that the state of the crevasses to get to the route are some of the most dangerous i've walked across! An obligatory step onto a horizontal snow bridge before the start of the route is a ticking time bomb and gave an unnerving thunk under my 60kgs stepping aboard- go early, or not at all. You are also underneath some very active seracs. We rapped off the top down the other side(N) in 3 big raps(~55m,55m,60m on slightly suspect rock in patches but short lived) into the bergschrund (firm and solid) and walked out unthreatened and unscathed. Recommended if you don't mind climbing in big boots/with a bag.

with Flynn
Naomi.P 06/Jul/16 AltLd

Satisfying rock, fun climbing with a slowww abseil. Creaking, thin snow bridge. Painful slog. Stunning sunset after missing the last lift by 3+ hours. Being ignored by staff in lift station lead to a cold night with an Italian man.

with Leo H
leopolian 06/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Great climbing on really beautiful rock. Some really interesting cracks and corners as well as delicate slabby moves. Moved together for a fair amount of the easier ground (up to about 4b) and pitched the harder stuff. Completed the route in reasonable time but abbing off the east face was a very messy affair! Had a very difficult time at the bottom when we did one less ab than we should have causing a lot of faf and lost time - Naomi set up a ladder of gear to downclimb after escaping onto the rock off the very unstable snow. She then came to my rescue whilst I was sitting in the snow on the end of the rope. The state of the snow at the bottom and the small bridge across the very large crevasse seemed particularly dangerous so I belayed Naomi out over it and then moved very carefully over her steps. The walk back to the Midi was a horrible uphill slog. The time taken to ab down the route and the horrendous walk back meant we missed the last lift and had to sleep in the ice tunnel into the station. A cold night.

matty123 03/Jul/16 AltLd
Petarghh 03/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
niallsash 03/Jul/16 AltLd
with kdo
Martin Haworth 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Great day and great route. Left Midi at 8:15 and managed to get back for 5pm.

kdo 03/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Crossed from the Midi to the Pyramid Du Tacul for the first time, and on to the Torino. Good route, nothing hard on it. Getting up to the Torino was very hard as I had altitude sickness. Niall very patient...and funny!! You have to laugh!!

Hidden 10/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
ADAMSTUBS ?/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Alpine Techniques Level 2

joelevanschamonix 26/Aug/15 Lead β

great route, difficulties at bergschrund. delicate start

Hidden 05/Aug/15 2nd
onlyfoddington 05/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

A very pointy peak. Not too hard but good fun with the exception of some terrifying crevasses to navigate after finishing.

with Andy
dawp4810 23/Jul/15 2nd O/S

with Gav Pike

piken 20/Jul/15 -
tunnah 01/Jul/15 AltLd
CMoore 01/Jul/15 AltLd
shaun walby ?/Jul/15 AltLd
with Rich and Nigel
cearbhalld 26/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
davkeo 26/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Brilliant day in great situation. Climbing was just great start to finish. Lovely cracks on sound rock and never hard. Did a beauty of a direct crack on pitch 3 which was sublime.

joelevanschamonix ??/2015 -
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead
7toes 30/Aug/14 2nd
with DamianR
Hidden 17/Jul/14 AltLd
MPSBunny 21/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Bivied on the glacier the night before near the Torino hut. I had an amazing nights sleep which sadly wasn't the case for Robby. Had a rather long walk in across the glacier to the foot of the route involving traversing under some small seracs and a gnarly step over onto the rock. Set off with some enthusiasm but swiftly ended off route up some hard jamming cracks which led to a quick debate followed by an abseil retreat.

Hidden 21/Aug/13 2nd dnf
Hidden 15/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/13 AltLd
Jo sumner 14/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 14/Aug/13 Lead
garethsteel 14/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 05/Aug/13 Lead
MichaelGallimore 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Walked from aguille du midi early cable car, easy walk down across col du midi. Overtook one group on climb. Stayed in taccon hut after. We were last group down, and every other group got ropes jammed and were helped by following groups. Kept abseils short and were careful to avoid jams.

with Bern hardman, Nigel
Nigel Bond 13/Jul/13 AltLd
with Bern Hardman
kelly_426 ?/Jul/13 -
mcaterina ?/Jul/13 AltLd

My first girls-only alpine/rock alternate leads

with Trine
Hidden ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Tobias at Home ??/2013 -
Hidden 26/Aug/12 AltLd dnf
Stuart Johnston 15/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Direct start beneath seracs which were quite threatening and there was a lot of debris where we geared up. Start from E Face was impossible due to deep rimaye. Rappel down the route is tricky due to shallow angle and most raps were kept to 0m to avoid rope jams. Great route but longer than expected. Slog back to the Midi is a complete ball buster.

with Misha Gopaul
Oceanic 01/Aug/12 -

My advice from (observing French guides on the route)... 1.Don't do the start described in the Laroche/Lelong guide book. At present (Aug 2012) the rimaye is very fragile. Do the direct start described in the Lindsay Griffen guide book. (but still have a look at the Laroche/Lelong guide as it has useful topos). 2. Don't use the bolted descent described in the Laroche/Lelong guide book - it crosses some very slabby ground that is very effective at snagging ropes after you have pulled them through the abseil anchor. When descending from the summit start off with only the weaker climber abseiling, the stronger climber can prevent the rope jamming by not abseiling and instead down climbing pitches of around British Severe. When you start to descend the harder pitches, use insitu slings (with maillions) to abseil back down the route you climbed, until you reach the bottom of the direct start. The direct start is steeper and less likely to snag your ropes in descent.

Vincej 24/Jul/12 2nd
with Fred Drouet
Andy Hewison 24/Jul/12 2nd dnf

Weather was coming in and had to catch telecabin from Helbronner back to the Midi station. Did 6 pitches and 3 abs back down. Good route, recommended.

with Vince, Fred
dan ely 23/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with steve
Ewan Russell 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with steve(friend of james wilson), james wilson
Rockley 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Merlin 21/Jun/12 2nd

Rope got stuck three times on the abseil down.

with Mark Patterson
mark88 21/Jun/12 Lead
with Merlin Andrew
_hs_ ??/2012 AltLd
guy757 22/Aug/11 -
geoff.comley 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Really nice rock route, amazing granite cracks and slabs.

Hidden 21/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Liam Ingram ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome climbing.

Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
benclimbing ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
DAL ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/11 2nd O/S
HarryB 15/Jul/11 AltLd
with Will
catemuir 15/Jul/11 2nd dnf

Had to bail at the slabby pitches as climbing in big boots

Hidden 15/Jul/11 AltLd
davidmckeown ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
davidmckeown ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Roberttaylor ??/2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/10 AltLd
Hidden 16/Jul/10 AltLd
AMarchant 09/Jul/10 -

First big rock route, consequently, it took a while. A very rushed descent wasn't quick enough, we missed the last lift and slept in the toilets after being given a free cup of coffee and couple of blankets by the staff, very kind :)

with Ally Hurst, Stu Air
Hidden 09/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with emily
Tommy Harris ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with phillip belcher
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/09 AltLd
david0811 15/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Great climb. missed the last cable car and ended up sleeping in the station toilets.

with Mark Reid
Hidden 14/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
jamieevans ?/Aug/09 AltLd
SWalls 16/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden 16/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jul/09 2nd
barksmo ??/2009 -
riven 30/Jul/08 2nd dnf

Slabby pitches were too much in big boots. It also started to storm half way up.

with Tom
Diggler 10/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with craig
Hidden 12/May/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
tebs ?/Aug/07 AltLd
with Sci
Hidden 13/Jul/07 AltLd
Joubert ?/Jul/07 -
Bristoldave ??/2007 AltLd
with douglas
alicia 23/Aug/06 2nd

We didn't do last pitch--full of snow

with Tobs
Hidden 06/Aug/06 AltLd
Tobias at Home ?/Aug/06 Lead dnf

missed last two slabby pitches cos of too much snow and not wanting to miss the last cable car....

with Alicia
Hidden ?/Aug/06 AltLd
andybuckley ?/Aug/06 AltLd

Great! A bit slow, so finished at dusk _just_ below the summit. Interesting long abseil descent to our tent at the bottom.

with Tom Whipple
Hidden 29/Jul/06 AltLd
gripped01 ?/Jul/06 AltLd
with Dave Tait
Smelly Fox 09/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Sion Brocklehurst
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead
andyinglis ?/Jul/05 AltLd
with neil adams
AdamCB ?/Jul/05 -

With Tim and Rick

Neil Adams ??/2005 AltLd O/S
mike.moss ?/Jul/03 AltLd
with Helen
Hidden ?/Jun/03 -
Hidden ?/Sep/99 Lead
stokesrees ??/1996 Lead
with Ryan Brown
Daniel Wrightson ?/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Kieran
Pete_Frost 07/Aug/91 AltLd

Found route easy and fast in ascent but got rope stuck twice on abseil descent. Gaston strikes again!

with Stuart Turnbull
Hidden ?/Jul/91 AltLd
Hidden 01/Aug/90 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/89 AltLd O/S
pauldrew ?/Aug/89 AltLd
with Jim Hart
Rob Kennard ??/1986 -
with James Dunlop
garywalker147 ??/1986 -
Robmwatt ??/1985 AltLd
with Gaz Morgan
Martin Haworth ?/Aug/83 AltLd O/S
with tim wright
John Marsland ??/1982 -
with Eduardo Martinez
Hidden ??/1981 -
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