Rockfax Description
III, 230m. This was a real classic in decades past but doesn't see as much traffic any more. A traditional alpine route!
1) 4b. Cross the bergschrund and climb 60m up the snow couloir until a ledge system leads out right on the west face. Follow the ledge system up and rightwards easily past a couple of short steps (max 4b). There is the occasional sling/peg to indiciate the line. After roughly 80m (the exact length will depend on the line you take and the amount of snow in the couloir) move round onto the south face on more steady ground, underneath a section of white rock, to reach the ledge and junction with Les Intouchables.
2) 5c. From the far right end of the ledge, climb the tricky and exposed corner on good flakes to a bolt belay. The pitch eats gear and there are several pegs too, so you can get on with enjoying the situation without too much stress.
The next two pitches are unobvious but the ground is of similar difficulty so don't get too worried about the exact line; follow your nose and avoid snow as much as possible.
3) 4b. Trend rightwards across easier ground to a belay just below the next ledge system.
4) 4b. Carry on up a groove and skirt the often snowy ledge on the left before coming back right to belay at the top of the ledge, beneath a shallow corner.
5) 4b. Climb this past a peg (4b) to a ledge. A crack on the left leads to a small ledge. Scramble up easier ground above to a bigger ledge and climb the corner on the left to a ledge in a stunning spot, looking down the south face and directly below the two summits of the Trident.
6) 4c. Climb the corner to the notch between the summits. There is a peg/sling belay at the notch but it is best to carry on and make an exposed traverse to the left-hand summit, the slightly higher of the two. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Unclimbable following the huge rockfall in September 2018

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Alpine Dreamz

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