200m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
III, 230m. This was a real classic in decades past but doesn't see as much traffic any more. A traditional alpine route!
1) 4b. Cross the bergschrund and climb 60m up the snow couloir until a ledge system leads out right on the west face. Follow the ledge system up and rightwards easily past a couple of short steps (max 4b). There is the occasional sling/peg to indiciate the line. After roughly 80m (the exact length will depend on the line you take and the amount of snow in the couloir) move round onto the south face on more steady ground, underneath a section of white rock, to reach the ledge and junction with Les Intouchables.
2) 5c. From the far right end of the ledge, climb the tricky and exposed corner on good flakes to a bolt belay. The pitch eats gear and there are several pegs too, so you can get on with enjoying the situation without too much stress.
The next two pitches are unobvious but the ground is of similar difficulty so don't get too worried about the exact line; follow your nose and avoid snow as much as possible.
3) 4b. Trend rightwards across easier ground to a belay just below the next ledge system.
4) 4b. Carry on up a groove and skirt the often snowy ledge on the left before coming back right to belay at the top of the ledge, beneath a shallow corner.
5) 4b. Climb this past a peg (4b) to a ledge. A crack on the left leads to a small ledge. Scramble up easier ground above to a bigger ledge and climb the corner on the left to a ledge in a stunning spot, looking down the south face and directly below the two summits of the Trident.
6) 4c. Climb the corner to the notch between the summits. There is a peg/sling belay at the notch but it is best to carry on and make an exposed traverse to the left-hand summit, the slightly higher of the two. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Unclimbable following the huge rockfall in September 2018


Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Alpine Dreamz


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Guidebooks for Mont Blanc du Tacul

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High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hirondelles Arete

Grade: D ***
(Grandes Jorasses)

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