III, 195m. Possibly the hardest rock in this book, a free ascent of this line is much sought after but rarely achieved. Philippe Batoux, in his book, Mont Blanc - The Finest Routes describes this as "one of the best rock routes in the massif". Those lucky enough to be able to climb it may agree, but unfortunately, mere mortals will have to take his word for it!1) 7b. Scramble easily onto a ledge and climb the tough corner-crack to a belay on a small ledge.2) 6c. Continue up another crack to a small notch, move left and up to a belay below and left of a roof.3) 7a. A beast of a pitch! Climb up to the roof and pass it on the left before traversing right above it to a wide crack. Follow this and step left to a belay.4) 6b. Climb any of the cracks above to reach the ledge where this route meets the Lépiney. The left one is slighty easier.5) 6a. Follow the slabby corner to where it steepens, 5m beneath a huge jammed block.6) 7b. Step right off the belay and climb steeply past the jammed block and onto the crest of the rock ridge coming straight off the Trident summit. Climb just to the left of this to a belay beneath the crux crack, to the left of the ridge.7) 7b+. Having seen so few free ascents, the grade of this pitch is still open to debate, with opinions varying from 7a+ to 7c+. Suffice to say it is hard and sustained. It was bolted on the first ascent but these have now been removed and the pitch is protected with cams. The belay at the top is well earned and spectacularly perched.8) 6c. Traverse right from the belay and climb directly to the Trident summit. This pitch feels like a holiday compared to that which preceded it! © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Unclimbable following the huge rockfall in September 2018.
H.Bouvard, M.Piola 1988.
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