UKC

Climbs 52
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 318m a.s.l
Faces S

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John Allen climbing his own route Golden Parachute (6b+) at Moss Rake © Alan James

Crag features

The disused quarry of Moss Rake has three developed sections including and interesting slab which gives some good technical climbing of an unusual style for Peak District limestone. There is also a chert wall with a set of dirtier routes and a shorter upper tier. Development is ongoing so the routes list may change and route names will hopefully be added. Please respect any routes that are projects and leave them to the FA. 

Approach notes

The crag is approached from the minor road above Bradwell, parallel to the B6049. To get on this road from the south, turn off the A623 at the Tideswell Anchor pub crossroads towards the pub. Turn immediately left in front of the pub down a minor road. Follow this for a couple of kilometers to a left turn at a junction which drops down towards a big old quarry entrance with Moss Rake written on stone block on either side. Park here and walk through the gate and up into the first landscaped section of the quarry. Head slightly left up a grassy slope to a ridge overlooking the bigger second hole. Drop down here steeply on scree and follow the track at the bottom initially under the chert wall and then on to the slab know as the 'Library'.

Restricted Access

Seasonal restriction - 1st March to 30th June (extended to 14th July 2022) - this applies to the whole quarry to prevent disturbance to nesting Schedule 1 birds.

There is no access agreement with the landowner for Moss Rake and private property signs have been put up. We are trying to contact the landowner to discuss the situaiton and attempt to negotiate access, but don't have definite contact details yet. If anyone knows or meets the landowner of the section of the quarry where the climbing is located, please ask for their contact details or pass on the details for Rob Dyer (BMC Access & Conservation Officer England) - robd@thebmc.co.uk and 07554 998914

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 14 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Update 2022: Due to delayed breeding and thus late fledging, the restriction has been extended until 14th July. Thank you for your help.

The restriction applies to the whole quarry to prevent disturbance to nesting Schedule 1 birds.

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Climbs at this crag

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Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Alan James - UKC and UKH

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