Climbs 53
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 318m a.s.l
Faces S
John Allen climbing his own route Golden Parachute (6b+) at Moss Rake © Alan James
Crag features
NESTING PEREGRINE FALCONS spotted September 2023, please respect the birds and leave if they seem distressed / continue to squawk. The disused quarry of Moss Rake has four developed sections including an interesting slab which gives some good technical climbing of an unusual style for Peak District limestone. There is also a chert wall with a set of dirtier routes, a shorter upper tier and looser lower tier. Development is ongoing so the routes list may change and route names will hopefully be added. Please respect any routes that are projects and leave them to the FA.
Approach notes
The crag is approached from the minor road above Bradwell, parallel to the B6049. To get on this road from the south, turn off the A623 at the Tideswell Anchor pub crossroads towards the pub. Turn immediately left in front of the pub down a minor road. Follow this for a couple of kilometers to a left turn at a junction which drops down towards a big old quarry entrance with Moss Rake written on stone block on either side. Park here and walk through the gate and up into the first landscaped section of the quarry. Head slightly left up a grassy slope to a ridge overlooking the bigger second hole. Drop down here steeply on scree and follow the track at the bottom initially under the chert wall and then on to the slab know as the 'Library'.
Access Advice
Seasonal restriction - 1st March to 30th June - this applies to the whole quarry to prevent disturbance to nesting Schedule 1 birds.
There is no access agreement with the landowner for Moss Rake and private property signs have been put up. We are trying to contact the landowner to discuss the situaiton and attempt to negotiate access, but don't have definite contact details yet. If anyone knows or meets the landowner of the section of the quarry where the climbing is located, please ask for their contact details or pass on the details for Rob Dyer (BMC Access & Conservation Officer England) - robd@thebmc.co.uk and 07554 998914
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction is now in place for 2023. The restriction applies to the whole quarry to prevent disturbance to nesting Schedule 1 birds.
| I have added two new areas to the crag and sorted out the new routes into the correct places. I have checked the routes in the lower tier. I didn't check the new routes on the quarry wall yet or upper tier. mpickering - 06/Sep/23 |
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| Looks like the needs a lower tier adding to info as new routes under the upper tier banner are on the new lower tier I think? Christheclimber - 20/Jul/22 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers mpickering and mpickering