UKC

Climbs 91
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 318m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Conor on the well named 'Bucket Symphony' at Moughton Nab © Dave Warburton

Approach notes

During a visit to the crag on Saturday 22nd September, we were approached by the landowner and asked not to access the crag from the left hand end (when facing the crag) as described in the Rockfax Northern Limestone guidebook. He advised this was due to a fence and wall getting climbed over and damaged at the start of the Quarry Sector and also between the Sporadic Walls and Soft Centre  

He asked that we access the crag from the right-hand end, via the footpath which runs around the north side of the quarry to Foredale. Then from the footpath walk up the fairly steep shoulder to the crag. We were unaware of the access land designation when talking to him (or if there have been previous access discussions) but the request seems reasonable for accessing the right hand end of the crag and avoids crossing any walls to get to the Soft Centre or Overhanging Buttress. It may even be a slightly shorter approach if you park at Foredale. 

 

Update 07/09/2020 - beware of loose rock to the left of Groovy Grandad. While finishing a lower-off from the route this weekend, some really big blocks came loose and fell out from the base of the wall, just to the left of the route (facing the crag). Hopefully the route itself won't be affected, but be careful around this area, the rock didn't seem stable. For instance, other blocks above may now have lost their support and could start to loosen.

Rockfax Digital

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Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
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Was asked to leave the crag today by a gentleman claiming to be the landowner. When asked for the reason, he simply stated that he "wasn't allowing climbing". He was perfectly polite and I didn't want to push the issue in case we'd missed something in the access arrangements, so we packed up and left. I'm not sure if the recent death at Castleberg has made him more wary of climbers, but as far as I can see, the crag is on CROW land and his right to restrict access is limited by the provisions of the act. Have let the relevant BMC access rep know about the incident and hopefully it's easily put right, but if you're planning on heading here in the near future, it might be worth choosing another venue until the situation is resolved.
Adam_42 - 27/Jun/21
Well worth a visit but don't believe the approach time quoted in the Rockfax guide. The walk in takes 20-30 minutes!
roger whetton - 05/Oct/15
Great crag, climber here 16th June 2015 in Soft centre area. All the climbs offer something interesting, bolting is great ! a great crag to build some confidence.
Ahogg16 - 19/Jun/15
Had a good day climbing on the Soft Centre routes. They are shortish, well bolted and on good sound rock. Good work and bolting by the Yorkshire boys.
Christheclimber - 23/May/15
My recent visit: http://epicmountainadventures.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/sport-climbing-at-moughton-nab-yorkshire.html
Si Withington - 25/Aug/12
The quality of the rock at the top of the crag is very poor and makes it difficult to make even a tenuous belay. Not worth the visit.
Ragingpossum - 07/Apr/12
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Climbs at this crag

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