Climbs 91
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 318m a.s.l
Faces SE
Conor on the well named 'Bucket Symphony' at Moughton Nab © Dave Warburton
During a visit to the crag on Saturday 22nd September, we were approached by the landowner and asked not to access the crag from the left hand end (when facing the crag) as described in the Rockfax Northern Limestone guidebook. He advised this was due to a fence and wall getting climbed over and damaged at the start of the Quarry Sector and also between the Sporadic Walls and Soft Centre
He asked that we access the crag from the right-hand end, via the footpath which runs around the north side of the quarry to Foredale. Then from the footpath walk up the fairly steep shoulder to the crag. We were unaware of the access land designation when talking to him (or if there have been previous access discussions) but the request seems reasonable for accessing the right hand end of the crag and avoids crossing any walls to get to the Soft Centre or Overhanging Buttress. It may even be a slightly shorter approach if you park at Foredale.
Update 07/09/2020 - beware of loose rock to the left of Groovy Grandad. While finishing a lower-off from the route this weekend, some really big blocks came loose and fell out from the base of the wall, just to the left of the route (facing the crag). Hopefully the route itself won't be affected, but be careful around this area, the rock didn't seem stable. For instance, other blocks above may now have lost their support and could start to loosen.
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