Climbs 91
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 318m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Conor on the well named 'Bucket Symphony' at Moughton Nab © Dave Warburton

Crag features

Contrary to information in the access notes the crags are NOT accessible from the footpath between Dry Rigg and Foredale/helwith bridge. The OS map clearly shows the access land ends either above or right at the base (debatable). 


As such the only access is either from the left of Dry Rigg (in direct contrast to the existing notes and info from that landowner) or directly down from Moughton itself by soft centre, the 'stile' to the east of the crags being non NYNP, nor maintained and leading onto non access land. 

Approach notes

During a visit to the crag on Saturday 22nd September, we were approached by the landowner and asked not to access the crag from the left hand end (when facing the crag) as described in the Rockfax Northern Limestone guidebook. He advised this was due to a fence and wall getting climbed over and damaged at the start of the Quarry Sector and also between the Sporadic Walls and Soft Centre  

He asked that we access the crag from the right-hand end, via the footpath which runs around the north side of the quarry to Foredale. Then from the footpath walk up the fairly steep shoulder to the crag. We were unaware of the access land designation when talking to him (or if there have been previous access discussions) but the request seems reasonable for accessing the right hand end of the crag and avoids crossing any walls to get to the Soft Centre or Overhanging Buttress.

There is no parking at Foredale, Private road, No access. A few parking spots remain by Dry Rigg quarry, 20 min walk to crag (this is the historical parking for Moughton Nab). There is a free car park in Helwith Bridge opposite the pub and terrace houses, from here 25 min walk to crag.


Update 07/09/2020 - beware of loose rock to the left of Groovy Grandad. While finishing a lower-off from the route this weekend, some really big blocks came loose and fell out from the base of the wall, just to the left of the route (facing the crag). Hopefully the route itself won't be affected, but be careful around this area, the rock didn't seem stable. For instance, other blocks above may now have lost their support and could start to loosen.

No Access Issues

Please park on the left of the quarry access road, by the quarry entrance from where a footpath follows the south side of the quarry to gain the footpath coming over the fields to the west.  The approaches to this crag are all on CroW Access Land although the farmer who owns the field below the right-hand side has recently stated he doesn't accept that this gives a right to climb there. If challenged, be polite but the legislation is on your side. Climbing is a permitted activity on Access Land. The left hand sports sector which is in effect the central part of the crag is directly above the working quarry and the owners have asked that climbing be avoided on this sector during the working week (Mon to Fri up to 6pm) to minimise any risk of rock being dislodged onto workers below. No one works in that part of the quarry at weekends.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds


Hi everybody, Yesterday I managed to leave my clipstick below Economical Route Number One, and then when I've come back today to get it, somebody has taken it. If somebody picked it up could they please get in touch as I'd ideally like it back! Thankyou!
benjamin.cannon - 28/May/23
Was asked to leave the crag today by a gentleman claiming to be the landowner. When asked for the reason, he simply stated that he "wasn't allowing climbing". He was perfectly polite and I didn't want to push the issue in case we'd missed something in the access arrangements, so we packed up and left. I'm not sure if the recent death at Castleberg has made him more wary of climbers, but as far as I can see, the crag is on CROW land and his right to restrict access is limited by the provisions of the act. Have let the relevant BMC access rep know about the incident and hopefully it's easily put right, but if you're planning on heading here in the near future, it might be worth choosing another venue until the situation is resolved.
Adam_42 - 27/Jun/21
Well worth a visit but don't believe the approach time quoted in the Rockfax guide. The walk in takes 20-30 minutes!
roger whetton - 05/Oct/15
Great crag, climber here 16th June 2015 in Soft centre area. All the climbs offer something interesting, bolting is great ! a great crag to build some confidence.
Ahogg16 - 19/Jun/15
Had a good day climbing on the Soft Centre routes. They are shortish, well bolted and on good sound rock. Good work and bolting by the Yorkshire boys.
Christheclimber - 23/May/15
My recent visit:
Si Withington - 25/Aug/12
The quality of the rock at the top of the crag is very poor and makes it difficult to make even a tenuous belay. Not worth the visit.
Ragingpossum - 07/Apr/12
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