4 pitches.
1. Start at the base of the corner as for Sun and Snow. Up corner for 30ft then break left on to the arête. Go up for another 10ft then up the right side of the hanging block. Make a delicate step down and left to a semi-hanging stance under a large roof. (4c)
2. Traverse left along the natural break under the huge overhangs making an awkward step approximately half way along. Belay at good bay at left end of the buttress just before the arête. (5a)
3. Sneak around left on to the arête and them go straight up to an awkward undercut bulge. Over this and then up steep ground to hanging belay in corner under large final roof. (4c)
4. Make and exciting traverse out right from the belay to gain the arête and so a good rest ledge. Continue straight up through final steep section to the top. Good belays well back from the edge. (5a) A superb route with many fine situations – not for novices!
2. Traverse left along the natural break under the huge overhangs making an awkward step approximately half way along. Belay at good bay at left end of the buttress just before the arête. (5a)
3. Sneak around left on to the arête and them go straight up to an awkward undercut bulge. Over this and then up steep ground to hanging belay in corner under large final roof. (4c)
4. Make and exciting traverse out right from the belay to gain the arête and so a good rest ledge. Continue straight up through final steep section to the top. Good belays well back from the edge. (5a) A superb route with many fine situations – not for novices!
P. Hamilton and D Wells Jan/2003.
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