3 pitches. 1. Start just left of centre of the main buttress. Climb up trending left then cut back right to obvious break in lower overhangs, under prominent V scoop. Arrange bombers gear just under the lip then make a huge rock over, lunging for a jug with right hand. When jug has finally been attained, scamper up over the roof to hanging belay up and right of V scoop on reddish rock. (5c)

2. Step up and right from the belay making a rising traverse in a spectacular position on huge holds. Keep trending right until a difficult move enables the vertical crack leading to a small bay to be gained. Power up this for a well deserved rest and then belay in the small bay below the huge final roof. (5b)

3. Step up and left from the stance, then make another long step left over the void and into the small niche behind the huge hanging block. Somehow, turn and face outwards, then crawl/drag yourself along the top of the block until you pop out onto a small ledge. Turn yourself around to face the buttress and climb easily to the top taking care as you pass a few suspect flakes. (5a)

A tremendous route – not for the faint hearted!

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