UKC

24m. Start 2 metres right of Illusion Corner. Climb to a ledge at 3m, traverse right around the arête, and climb a rib for 6m to a ledge. Move left to a crack and follow this to the top.

FA. C.Mortlock, S.Cooke 20/Jul/1967.

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User Date Notes
steveshaking 13 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with a number of people's comments. The route description makes no sense. Maybe I didn't do the route or there's been rock fall. But this is what I did: I traversed at the same height as the platform. Then after going around the arete it's up left to the main higher platform. I agree that it's better to call this a pitch, unless you have little rope drag. Then I trended right up a pillar before stepping out left in an airy and committing move to a nose (with all the exposure you could want), in a move that's definitely not severe, maybe HS or VS 4b?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with a number of people's comments. The route description makes no sense. Maybe I didn't do the route or there's been rock fall. But this is what I did: I traversed at the same height as the platform. Then after going around the arete it's up left to the main higher platform. I agree that it's better to call this a pitch, unless you have little rope drag. Then I trended right up a pillar before stepping out left in an airy and committing move to a nose (with all the exposure you could want), in a move that's definitely not severe, maybe HS or VS 4b?

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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 4
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Giltar Slab Route

Grade: S 4a ***
(Penally East)

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