UKC

Climbs 68
Rocktype Conglomerate
Altitude 158m a.s.l
Faces S

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Who needs euro limestone! Scottish conglomerate is where it's at! © mike71

Crag features

Ravens NESTING  NOW  22/03/2022

Ravens are nesting on a ledge just right of Pyramid on the Black Streak Wall so please avoid Pyramid for the time being and keep quite if doing other routes close by. Thanks Martin

South facing conglomerate crag that has come of age with plenty of great sport routes. Now more open due to recent felling and is a sun trap throughout the year.

GOING TO THE TOILET AT THE CRAG

Can climbers please be sensible and do their latrine somewhere away from the crag as some corners are not very pleasant and there is a build-up of toilet paper and faeces. Thanks

DOGS AT THE CRAG - Can owners please lift their dogs pooh as the narrow tracks leading to and around the routes are now being littered with dog pooh which isn't pleasant when you happen to stand on when in your rock shoes. 

 

Please note: A large piece of conglomerate pebble detacted itself when climbing on Pebbledash 6b (22/07/21). This hold looked extremely used and was well chalked. It is recommended to wear a helemet at this crag. Particularly when belaying. 

Approach notes

Park beside forest entrance keeping vehicular access free. Please keep to main tracks being created by local worthies including the Old Man of Moy who can be seen occasionally with a spade when the conditions are right. Be careful as he can be a grumpy old sod!

PARKING SENSIBLY
There have been problems with cars blocking the gate which is in use by estate vehicles - PLEASE PARK ON THE VERGE TO AVOID CONFLICT WITH THE ESTATE. THANKS

Restricted Access

Ravens Nesting on ledge halfway up to the right of Pyramid so please avoid that route for the time being. The ravens are fairly tolerant so shouldn't be too bothered if climbing to the left if people are not too noisy.

Cheers Martin

 

Information on nesting birds will be put on the site and on this web page each year when nesting occurs so keep checking before going to the crag during the nesting period from early February till early June to get the latest information.

ALSO CHECK Mountaineering Scotland WEBSITE FOR MORE INFO
A popular sports crag with further routes being added all the time. There are trad routes if you are brave and boulders and bouldering walls about but be prepared for occasional popping holds.

Please avoid routes with tape on the lower bolts as they are still to be climbed after bolting by originators as the crag continues to be developed. Other sectors may be being developed so please leave any insitu gear and ropes.

Who indeed needs Euro Limestone? What a great crag. Good pumpy conglomerate climbing with lovely views. Would be a 3* crag if you didn't have the thrum of traffic from the A835.
Giles Davis - 10/Aug/17
Crux of The Seer is now much easier due to a 'new' hold appearing. 7a+?
Ean T - 28/Jul/12
Have just had a fantastic day here inbetween dropping the kids at school and picking them up again in Aviemore...so good did it two days in a row and completed 12 great routes with more to go at. Fantastic effort to all those involved. N.B. Although realising the development is still in its infancy only two signs at the crag to warn of birds, both with route names to avoid but topos for crag still poor. I and my partner have climbed for a long time but found it difficult to know where the birds are nesting as we could make out three seperate nests of two owls & a raven. Please could either notices at base of routes to be avoided be placed or a plastic not cable tied to the bolts to prevent access untill topos have improved and be uopdated. Would hate to have this location removed by RSPB on grounds of disturbance through lack of info.
Northsea - 05/May/12
Popped past for a look today (no rope or partner), good effort all those involved with the recent work at this crag. Really look forward to getting on it.
Roberttaylor - 04/Jan/12
Moy Rock,Conon Bridge - Pudding Chimney - Severe - 31m Feb-68 First Ascent: Graeme Hunter, QT Chrichton Can you confirm this ascent, or was it done before 1968? Graeme Hunter
GN Hunter - 14/Oct/11
driven past many times and glad i stopped now, brilliant crag, climbing and setting. inspired me to get stronger.
Barber Baz - 12/Aug/11
Getting really popular now. To help reduce erosion please use the low angle approach path that starts from the very end of the steep logging track. This is much better for reducing erosion than the old path. WARNING- Please be very careful when pulling out from the parking due to fast overtaking vehicles on the main road.
nick carter - 10/May/11
One of the best mid grade sport venues in Scotland. The routes are long and well bolted. This crag deserves to be really popular. Big respect to the effort of all involved especially Andy Wilby.
sheppy - 30/Apr/11
Conglomerate!! Who needs Riglos eh. Completely bonkers and very cool. Long and pumpy (especially on the impressive main wall) and quite hard to onsight stuff but no doubt a lot easier for locals who have it wired and know where the "good grips" are. Watch out for a slipper feel to some of the holds.
Fiend - 10/May/10
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Climbs at this crag

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