Rockfax Description
This stellar route is one of the best easy routes in the world! It reaches a fine summit by easy yet compelling climbing. To the UK climber it is around Hard Severe but, be under no illusion, this is an alpine-style climb. Start just left of a steep section of the lower wall on well polished holds. The first belay can be seen on the right side of a niche 15m up.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb up steeply on good but polished holds. Make a committing step up to gain a crack and follow this for a few metres until you can traverse easily right to the belay.
2) 4c, 40m. Move right and make a tricky first few steps to gain a crack - peg. Move up and right on easy terrain and pass some pegs, cams and threads. Easy climbing up and slightly right eventually to gains the right-hand end of a ledge just left of some steeper overhanging rock.
3) 4b, 30m. Head up the corner on the right. As it bends right, belay on bolts on the right.
4) 4b, 35m. Continue up the corner and move left into a water runnel by a thread. There a more sustained and direct alternative straight up from the belay into a water runnel - 2 mid-size cams. Follow the runnel until the angle eases and the belay is in a niche on the left.
5) 3c, 50m. Directly above is a block about 60m up. Aim to the right of this block over easy slabby terrain to a bolt belay. Many climbers un-rope here for the scramble to the summit and back.
6) 20m. Traverse left along a terrace to the block.
7) 65m. Move left a few metres to the base of a groove and follow this easily to a poor block on another ledge just before the summit ridge.
8) 150m. Move together up to the ridge and head left and scramble easily up to the amazing summit. Try to remember the way up as you need to reverse down to the last bolt belay on top of pitch 5 and then abseil the line. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The Via Normal up the Naranjo de Bulnes.
A & J Thomas 13/Aug/1944.
Ticklists
10 Multi-pitch Routes Worth Travelling For , The Big Easys , Big Ideas , Big Pitches 4 Buff Boyz
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Maria - Spanny | 5 Aug |
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βeta: Is like a VS, so 5c or so We did it in july so left at 4am and were down before 12pm sun was burning our feet so wake up early! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Is like a VS, so 5c or so We did it in july so left at 4am and were down before 12pm sun was burning our feet so wake up early! |
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| Wborrett | 19 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Take plenty of cams. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Take plenty of cams. |
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| ebdon | 31 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: On the S face not E face as currently listed on ukc | βeta? | |
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βeta: On the S face not E face as currently listed on ukc |
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| Daigroom | 26 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: 60m ropes make the rappels easy. Be aware at this time of year the approach was up some hard north facing neve. Approach shoes were a bad choice! | βeta? | |
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βeta: 60m ropes make the rappels easy. Be aware at this time of year the approach was up some hard north facing neve. Approach shoes were a bad choice! |
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| C Witter | 29 Apr, 2020 |
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βeta: What is the grade? I've seen HS somewhere; V in the comments and VI+ on the route description? Anyone know? Ta! | βeta? | |
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βeta: What is the grade? I've seen HS somewhere; V in the comments and VI+ on the route description? Anyone know? Ta! |
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| Loelle | 27 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Walked in from Bulnes, stayed in hut next to worst snorer in the world, got up early and walked in. Incredible day out, mixed with sun and atmospheric clouds. Should have brought 2x 60m rope. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Walked in from Bulnes, stayed in hut next to worst snorer in the world, got up early and walked in. Incredible day out, mixed with sun and atmospheric clouds. Should have brought 2x 60m rope. |
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| Valaisan | 20 Jul, 2014 |
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βeta: Led 1 & 2, PK led 3, then: took a more vertical direct route from the belay at top of pitch 3 onwards to avoid dodgy belay bolts at top of original pitch 4 belay (as per advice from the Refuge). Made it a bit harder, possibly to V (with limited gear, one thread). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Led 1 & 2, PK led 3, then: took a more vertical direct route from the belay at top of pitch 3 onwards to avoid dodgy belay bolts at top of original pitch 4 belay (as per advice from the Refuge). Made it a bit harder, possibly to V (with limited gear, one thread). |
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