Rockfax Description
An alternative start to the Martinez Direct Route which may be useful if the first two pitches are congested. and you wish to loop around climbing quickly. Start 10m up from the start of the Martinez Direct Route, below a ramp that runs up and left across the base of the face.
1) 4c, 30m. Head up and join the ramp and follow it left below a steepening. Take the crackline that leads up and right towards the right-hand end of a triangular overhang 40m above and belay in a niche.
2) 4b, 30m. Follow a crack up and right, arcing right below the bulge to gain a ledge way over on the right and belay at the top of pitch 2 of Martinez Direct Route. © Rockfax
FA. Victor Martinez 22.9.1923 22/Sep/1923.
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Martinez Direct (Normal Route)
Grade: 4c ***
(Naranjo de Bulnes)