UKC

8m.

Rockfax Description
Easy climbing to one nails move. © Rockfax

FA. Guy Dixon 1995.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
dobby 200 6 May Show βeta
βeta: I've done this route a few times moving far right at the crux with a very thin right hand side pull, crossing through to a 2 finger pinch, then up to a jug at the top, just needing to traverse back across the crimp rail to clip the final bolt.
Show beta
βeta: I've done this route a few times moving far right at the crux with a very thin right hand side pull, crossing through to a 2 finger pinch, then up to a jug at the top, just needing to traverse back across the crimp rail to clip the final bolt.
Ben Thorne 11 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It's not about reach. It's about technique (as is the rest of the island). I'm 5'7" and like I said, found it impossible without the crucial foothold - once in position it made it easy.
Show beta
βeta: It's not about reach. It's about technique (as is the rest of the island). I'm 5'7" and like I said, found it impossible without the crucial foothold - once in position it made it easy.
Richard Horn 12 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Re: Credit due - clearly I am lacking some imagination on how to do the move.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Re: Credit due - clearly I am lacking some imagination on how to do the move.
Mick Ward 12 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Err... I'm 5ft6 and I did it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Err... I'm 5ft6 and I did it!
Richard Horn 12 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I would say this route is ridiculously height dependent and ungradeable. I am 6ft1 and undercutting the smooth arc I was still 2 inches or so short of the top hold. Someone 6ft6 would find this easy, someone 5ft6 absolutely impossible.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I would say this route is ridiculously height dependent and ungradeable. I am 6ft1 and undercutting the smooth arc I was still 2 inches or so short of the top hold. Someone 6ft6 would find this easy, someone 5ft6 absolutely impossible.
Ben Thorne 13 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Okay, now I really have to disagree with the re-grade. Does one comment on a frankly unrepresentative database warrant an up-grade? Surely it should be graded for the easiest way up it? With this route there IS only one way and the crux is no harder than English 5c. The route to the left is 6c and the crux is ten times harder. AND! what's the long reach symbol for?...ye gads... F6b+ MAX.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Okay, now I really have to disagree with the re-grade. Does one comment on a frankly unrepresentative database warrant an up-grade? Surely it should be graded for the easiest way up it? With this route there IS only one way and the crux is no harder than English 5c. The route to the left is 6c and the crux is ten times harder. AND! what's the long reach symbol for?...ye gads... F6b+ MAX.
Ben Thorne 27 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Unbalanced, yes, but as Steve points out - most of Portland is steady climbing with headwall cruxes. I couldn't do this until JD showed me how to do this cunning 1-inch foot move while you're undercutting the smooth arc. I can get it pretty much every time now. It's a good route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Unbalanced, yes, but as Steve points out - most of Portland is steady climbing with headwall cruxes. I couldn't do this until JD showed me how to do this cunning 1-inch foot move while you're undercutting the smooth arc. I can get it pretty much every time now. It's a good route.

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Onsighted
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Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Red Rain

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Winspit)
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