Rockfax Description
A great route; one of the better E5s in the quarries, though still a serious one. Start below the stepped roofs and ascend the groove under them until you can make a move left to go up to an iron spike. Gain and follow the sustained flake until bolts can be seen above and right on Igam-Ogam. Either move out to these and climb to the top (safe but hard), or continue up to a rest and poor gear. Trend up and left to a sloping ledge on the edge of the buttress and make your way very boldly to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An interesting route with a small iron spike for the crux. Climb desperately to the spike. Make a hard move to gain height above it up to a rest point (try not to fall onto spike as this will change your sexual orientation). Go up rib to overlap the follow the line of hold to the left of the arete. You can potentially use the bolts on Igam Ogam for protection. Take a second rope to belay at the top.

M E Crook, N Walton, AD Newton Feb/1984.


North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Ultimate E5 ticklist , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , Summer of dreams


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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 9
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Nectarine Run

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Clogwyn Gafr (aka Craig Fach))

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