UKC

Rockfax Description
A good two-pitch sport route. Start left of the main slab, just to the right of a concrete slab.
1) 5+, 25m. Climb directly up the slab to where it meets an overlap. A hard move rightwards past this gains the main wall. A series of mantelshelves leads past four bolts to a ledge (possible belay). Traverse right along Dandelion Ledge to a bolt belay.
2) 6a, 15m. Climb the corner to below the roof. Either climb directly over the roof (hard), or move left round the bulge. Continue up the corner to a good stance and bolt belay.
Descent - Walk down the grassy plateau back towards the approach to Seamstress Slab. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start:- To the left of the impressive main slab lies a huge complex wall rising over 100ft. This route starts below the middle of the wall at a short concrete-coated slab.

L1 15m F6a:- Climb directly up this slab past 2 bolts to where the slab meets a ramp-like arete abutting the wall above. Climb over or around the nose to gain a series of mantleshelves leading past 4 bolts to a ledge with bolt belays

L2 8m F3a:- Traverse right along Dandelion Ledge to gain another airy perch on the far arete. Bolt belays.

L3 12m F6a/6a+:- Climb directly up the corner to below the roof (2 bolts). Either climb directly over the roof (6a+) or move out left and up to rejoin the corner (6a). Continue delightfully up the corner crack (3 bolts) to a good stance and bolt belays.

Colin Goodey, Sue Goodey and Bryn Williams 19/Oct/2007.

Ticklists

Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6a & 6a+ , Slate Sport , Colin Goodey - A Ticklist for Everyone , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales)

Feedback

User Date Notes
rohandewan 23 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Still so many missing hangers. Intermediate belay left hanger is still loose. Missing hangar at top. Only single bolt at top with 2 maillons, one is too rusty, other is starting to show wear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Still so many missing hangers. Intermediate belay left hanger is still loose. Missing hangar at top. Only single bolt at top with 2 maillons, one is too rusty, other is starting to show wear.
Sororia 10 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Left bolt at the intermediate belay was a little loose. Have hand-tightened it, but it’ll likely need a spanner to stay put.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Left bolt at the intermediate belay was a little loose. Have hand-tightened it, but it’ll likely need a spanner to stay put.
Webbstar09 28 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Still only 1 bolt at the top of the final pitch. It is possible to walk off the top, but until a 2nd bolt is placed it would be advised to take a few medium cams and nuts to create sufficient anchor. Walk off is perfectly safe.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Still only 1 bolt at the top of the final pitch. It is possible to walk off the top, but until a 2nd bolt is placed it would be advised to take a few medium cams and nuts to create sufficient anchor. Walk off is perfectly safe.
eastonator 10 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Only 1 bolt at top for the anchor, needs a second bolt placing in
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Only 1 bolt at top for the anchor, needs a second bolt placing in
leedw24 30 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Belayed before traversing Dandelion Ridge. The nut of the left hand side bolt at the belay was a bit loose so I tightened it to finger tight.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Belayed before traversing Dandelion Ridge. The nut of the left hand side bolt at the belay was a bit loose so I tightened it to finger tight.
ACM 23 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: There is a large loose flake at the beginning of the third pitch ( I hope I remembered correctly - below the first removed bolt). Someone has marked with a large chalk 'X'. It doesn't affect the route as there are other footholds available, but it is good to avoid.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a large loose flake at the beginning of the third pitch ( I hope I remembered correctly - below the first removed bolt). Someone has marked with a large chalk 'X'. It doesn't affect the route as there are other footholds available, but it is good to avoid.
Glyn Davies 19 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Only one bolt belay at the top so take a sling for a convenient spike at the top, or use your rope to make one like I did.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Only one bolt belay at the top so take a sling for a convenient spike at the top, or use your rope to make one like I did.
Ian Ford 10 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Only 1 bolt belay. A 120 sling over a rock worked well.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Only 1 bolt belay. A 120 sling over a rock worked well.
owainb 11 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The belay at the top of the first pitch has two bolts and a chain. There is a single bolt at the top of the second pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The belay at the top of the first pitch has two bolts and a chain. There is a single bolt at the top of the second pitch.
Scottthedog 30 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Only one bolt at belay at top of first and 2nd pitch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Only one bolt at belay at top of first and 2nd pitch

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