UKC

Climbs the far left of the slab. The route climbs the slab just to the right of the broken and chossy rib. The climbing is delightfully delicate and care should be taken as there is some friable rock throughout the route. Two small cams were used and provided two reasonable placements at about half height, the first was slightly hidden by the overhang of grass on the left in a narrow horizontal break, the second is aproximatley 4 feet above. Climb the slab above with care aiming for the runnel above following the rock to ots heighest point. A small horizontal break gives anut placement of sort although with care some micro nuts may find a placement. (a small cam would be useful master cam 00 - 0)

In all this is an excellant climb worthy of a star, gear is sparse and requires care. The top out is over vertical mud and grass and a pre placed rope would make this entirely more comfortable and civalised!

Paddy Mitton & James Hoskin 27/Mar/2011.

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Atlantic Coast New Routes

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Route of Interest
Chlorophyll Cluster

Grade: E1 5b ***
(St. Loy Cliff)

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