Climbs 79
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 206m a.s.l
Faces SE

View Stats

Nogarth © Obi Wan

Crag features

Noggarth has recently experienced a surge of activity due to a thorough cleaning and the selective use of bolt protection.

It is now a 'mixed' crag where 'trad' and 'sport' should peacefully co-exist. Some routes lend themselves to bolted climbing due to their unprotected nature; others may use the odd piece of fixed gear on a trad route.

Given the new fixed equipment policy agreed by the BMC NW Area no new bolts should be added to existing trad routes without agreement at an area meeting.


Approach notes

Park on the main road with consideration of local residents. Over a stile at the road side then follow the path (5 min walk) to the crag.


No Access Issues

In early 2021, extra bolts appeared in the quarry on existing traditional routes. Some of these have been removed. Retro bolts should not be placed without agreement at BMC area meeting. Discussion is ongoing but agreement was reached at the January 2023 area meeting that retro bolts on existing trad routes should be removed.

The current policy in short:

  • To replace existing bolts when there is no alternative
  • Where specifically agreed after discussion at an area meeting
  • Where required in order to secure access

Autumn 2021: recent new routes listed here:  

Further discussion:

Excellent venue. many climbs on the first /girls slab as expected have little or no protection. need a steady head for leading or more bolts adding. many new routes here not listed yet
RHINOS - 16/Oct/21
what a great little crag. Hats off to Dave and Gordon for their hard work in the development of this venue
Angry old man - 20/May/21
It would be useful for those of us unable to obtain a guide/topo for the routes to be split into separate sectors and described left to right to avoid confusion.
Angry old man - 22/Oct/19
It would be useful if the UKC listing could segregate the routes by sector for those without a topo. Currently it is quite confusing
Angry old man - 22/Oct/19
there has been a lot of tree felled and thrown down into the quarry the short test pieces to the right are gone, the main face is still availabe but getting quite polished will try to get the blocked climbs free, please keep off the farmers wall R Haythornthwaite
zigzag - 22/Apr/08
Being about a 60degree slab, Nogarth is great for absolute beginners and that's about it. it's got a fair bit of height about it and the young-uns will feel like they've just climbed everest. ridiculously easy though- apart from the very top where you have to rely mostly on the friction from the rock, but you can basically run up the thing like spiderman! you could try palming it all the way up the right with your eyes closed to make it more interesting. 3 bomber stakes at the top. also an easy climb at the very left of the quarry with a couple of stakes. camp school use it now and then for abseiling. good for testing your prussic!
gjh1978 - 13/May/07
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
Please Login or Register to log routes or add them to your wishlist
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Swotson

Loading Notifications...