Rockfax Description
An outrageous traverse that ventures across the grossly overhung Sorcery Wall and the headwall at the back of Tiger Bay. Bold, strenuous and sustained. Begin by making a 10m abseil down the corner/chimney at the western end of the bay.
1) 5c, 45m. Head out right along the break and round the arete. Continue traversing across very steep ground until the angle eases. Move up and traverse above the overhang to a stance and belay on the arete.
2) 5b, 30m. Move right into the corner and then up to a suspended block. Traverse out across the block and then head up the wall above for 3m to some flat holds. Go right to a crack and take this and the short corner above to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Traverse of tiger bay
Pat Littlejohn 1977.
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Ogmore (Main))