Rockfax Description
To the left of the crest of the buttress a flake leans against the slabs. Start up a crack in the front face of this.
1) N4. Steady climbing up flakes to a stance on top.
2) and 3) N5-. Quite bold with fairly big run-outs to make the belay, but technically straightforward. Pitch 2 has a single bolt belay at the end of the traverse to aim for.
4) Originally there was a belay on the left but it is better to head up to the ledge then traverse right to belay in the crack.
5) N5+. The crack is pretty wide. Take a couple of big cams.
6) N6-. A nice technical groove.
7) N4+. The last pitch looks a good bit harder than the rest and pretty dirty; a traverse right leads to a pitch of heather and filth. Fortunately it is technically easy. © Rockfax
FA. Trond E Seem, Haakond Christiansen 7.7.1994 07/Jul/1994.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
mollyworth | 15 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: Corrected Descent Description: Scramble down gully until you see a green bit of tat and a bolt down and left- ab off this to next lot of tat(1) Ab down this (2) then scramble down to some boulders where another gully meets yours. Ab here (3) Scramble down ~50m to next bits of tat just before steep drop, ab here (4) Scramble down further down rocky chasm, river bed and then down through trees to beach and camp | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Corrected Descent Description: Scramble down gully until you see a green bit of tat and a bolt down and left- ab off this to next lot of tat(1) Ab down this (2) then scramble down to some boulders where another gully meets yours. Ab here (3) Scramble down ~50m to next bits of tat just before steep drop, ab here (4) Scramble down further down rocky chasm, river bed and then down through trees to beach and camp |
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Grade: n6- ***
(Svolvær)