Rockfax Description
75m. The long continuous crack system up the centre is the stand-out climb of the wall: sustained and very well protected. Start beneath a short vertical crack.
1. 35m 6b Climb the crack and traverse left along a rounded break to the main crack system. Make a long reach past a good undercut to a big jug, and continue up the crack, which soon forms twin deep cracks. Continue up these, and a third crack higher up, to a break beneath the pegmatite band. Layback the central of three flared cracks above and pull out left to a jug. Move tenuously right up a short diagonal crack to undercuts. Pull through these to gain good flakes leading up left to a belay.
2. 40m 5c Step left, then climb a steepening to make an awkward pull left onto a shelf. Continue up a groove to another shelf. Traverse left below a steep wall with a loose flake, step left around a lichenous arête and climb direct to the top.
FA P.Thorburn, R.Campbell (As described), Jun 2005 © Rockfax

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Ultimate Scottish Rock , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland , 4 Star Scottish rock , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

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