Restricted Access
The crag is on private land and also within the Alyn Valley Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest designated site.
Please dont approach the crag thorugh the Ty Bont Caravan park, only use the public rights of way. It's highly likley that any climbers seen here could be asked to leave by the landowner. If approached by the land owner, please be courteous and follow instructions and report to the BMC. In the meantime the BMC is attempting to secure a negotiated access.
Although there are public rights of way that pass close to the crag, the landowner has written to the climbers involved with re-developing the crag that he doesn't wish to see climbing being "advertised" here, stating that climbing here is "unsafe and on private property".
Rockfax Description
Start below a rib with prominent overlaps at the top of the crag. Pass the shale band carefully moving slightly to the left (clip the first bolt early, a good layaway in the pale patch helps) and climb the steep, intricate wall just left of a crack (occasional holds on the right can be useful) to gain the upper rib. Follow this on its left side to a lower-off on the left. © Rockfax
FA. H.Walmsley, C.Calow 22/May/2019.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Simonroberts1985 | 4 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route, some hard moves low down, felt like 6b | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Great route, some hard moves low down, felt like 6b |
||||
| Christheclimber | 27 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Felt more like 6b+ by not deviating towards the crack on left on the first half. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Felt more like 6b+ by not deviating towards the crack on left on the first half. |
||||
| harold walmsley | 11 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The "good layaway" noted at the start seems to have broken off but the first clip is still easy | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The "good layaway" noted at the start seems to have broken off but the first clip is still easy |
||||
Logged Ascents
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents