Restricted Access
The crag is on private land and also within the Alyn Valley Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest designated site.
Please dont approach the crag thorugh the Ty Bont Caravan park, only use the public rights of way. It's highly likley that any climbers seen here could be asked to leave by the landowner. If approached by the land owner, please be courteous and follow instructions and report to the BMC. In the meantime the BMC is attempting to secure a negotiated access.
Although there are public rights of way that pass close to the crag, the landowner has written to the climbers involved with re-developing the crag that he doesn't wish to see climbing being "advertised" here, stating that climbing here is "unsafe and on private property".
Rockfax Description
The pillar and wall between Honorary Horseshoe and Colonel Mustard. Start just right of Honorary Horseshoe. From a good hold in the floor of the shale band climb the scoop and wall above past a half-height easing to a steep finish. © Rockfax
FA. C.Calow, H.Walmsley 08/Aug/2019.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Simonroberts1985 | 14 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route, got it clean after a few attempts on top rope, hard first 2 bolts then gets easier after them. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Great route, got it clean after a few attempts on top rope, hard first 2 bolts then gets easier after them. |
||||
| harold walmsley | 6 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Don't use the break any further left than the left edge of the scoop above the overlap: not cleaned. Stay direct. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Don't use the break any further left than the left edge of the scoop above the overlap: not cleaned. Stay direct. |
||||
| Ian Ford | 1 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The break on the left is loose. Few holds pulled out of this but shouldn’t effect grade. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The break on the left is loose. Few holds pulled out of this but shouldn’t effect grade. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Traction Control
Grade: 6c ***
(Trevor Quarry)