Restricted Access

The crag is on private land and also within the Alyn Valley Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest designated site.

Please dont approach the crag thorugh the Ty Bont Caravan park, only use the public rights of way. It's highly likley that any climbers seen here could be asked to leave by the landowner.  If approached by the land owner, please be courteous and follow instructions and report to the BMC.  In the meantime the BMC is attempting to secure a negotiated access. 

Although there are public rights of way that pass close to the crag, the landowner has written to the climbers involved with re-developing the crag that he doesn't wish to see climbing being "advertised" here, stating that climbing here is "unsafe and on private property". 



Rockfax Description
Engaging and direct with good climbing. Start below a pale patch under an overlap. Climb through the pale patch and surmount the overlap to good holds. Make a tricky move to stand on the good holds and continue up the wall on mostly good holds but still with a couple of difficult moves. © Rockfax

FA. H.Walmsley, C.Calow 08/Aug/2019.


User Date Notes
John Postlethwaite 4 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Small crimp peeled off on the tricky step up, now a decent edge to pull on.
Show beta
βeta: Small crimp peeled off on the tricky step up, now a decent edge to pull on.

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