UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is on private land and also within the Alyn Valley Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest designated site.

Please dont approach the crag thorugh the Ty Bont Caravan park, only use the public rights of way. It's highly likley that any climbers seen here could be asked to leave by the landowner.  If approached by the land owner, please be courteous and follow instructions and report to the BMC.  In the meantime the BMC is attempting to secure a negotiated access. 

Although there are public rights of way that pass close to the crag, the landowner has written to the climbers involved with re-developing the crag that he doesn't wish to see climbing being "advertised" here, stating that climbing here is "unsafe and on private property". 

 

16m.

Rockfax Description
Start from the top of the grass cone just right of Pale and Interesting where the shale band has been cleared back to reveal a ledge. Gain the ledge easily and start in the corner to the right. Move up and left with difficulty, pass the needle (a threadable borehole: no need to thread it: there is a bolt) steeply and follow a weaving line of grooves and bulges. © Rockfax

FA. C.Calow, H.Walmsley 03/Jul/2019.

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User Date Notes
gazj1986 24 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Stiff sequence left at first bolt
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βeta: Stiff sequence left at first bolt

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