Restricted Access
The access situation is currently unclear. The UKC website was contacted by an agent of the landowner to say "no climbing allowed". The agent was advised to contact the BMC but has not responded to further contact from UKC. Climbs are recorded for historical purposes. The quarry or possibly just the surrounding area between the climbing and the main road are the subject of a dispute over future use as a landfill site. There is no right of access to this crag. Remain polite at all times.
65m.
Starting at the ‘crack HVS’, 5a traversing from left to right. The metal ring is not in, nor is the tree on the first arête. You should never be more than 2 meters from the ground until the very bold and committing top out up 'A Worthwhile Pastime but a Meaningless Ambition', E5 6c. Travers the first two walls with relative ease, upon reaching the final wall drop down into the lower brake line and hand traverse this with smears for feet to the better holds of ‘Kamikaze Cuckoo’. Head for the starting ledge of ’little wall climb and the arête. Swing around the arête and ascend this on its right hand side.
James Jennings 06/Apr/2009.
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