UKC

Restricted Access

Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.

Climbing is not allowed before 6pm on any of the routes above the Marine Drive, from and including Mayfair Wall during any Bank Holiday weekends and summer holiday times.

No climbing before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.

All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 25 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June. 

18m.

Rockfax Description
The classic of the wall. Start up a small flake and follow the line of weakness up and left across the wall. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , North Wales E5s

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Pen Trwyn

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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 22
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Ground Up
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Space Mountain

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Craig y Forwyn)

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