UKC

Restricted Access

Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.

Respect The Ormes - YouTube

No climbing on the routes above the Marine drive before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th this includes Mayfair Wall, the restriction extends to bank holiday weekends as well. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.

All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 25 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June. 

 

An additional restriction on Excursion Wall for No Bark, No Dill to Call it Black (Inclusive) due to a new nesting Choughs site. 

15m.

Rockfax Description
First-rate thin wall climbing to the finish of Excursion. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Sophie Nunn 23 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Needs a nut after the bulge
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Needs a nut after the bulge
LucaC 27 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Take a set of wires for the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take a set of wires for the top.

Logged Ascents

143 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Pen Trwyn

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 15 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
When the Lion Feeds

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Lighthouse Crags)

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